Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know if you can buy the pressure sensor (and the little fliter thing) needed for an Apexi EL (series I) boost gauge?

its the pressure sensor on page 4 of this manual http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/8.pdf

I'm guessing it's interchangeable with ELII gauges too. Also if anyone that has installed one could give me a heads up on installation issues it would be much appreciated (though it looks pretty straight forward - provided you have a pressure sensor...)

By the way, i bought this gauge yesterday 2nd hand but haven't been home to have a look in my engine bay - was just trying to figure out how much time it would take me by looking around for 'guides/instructions' and noticed the reference to this pressure sensor... :S

hmm ok, so i got home and had a look under the bonnet and see that the line coming from the plenum is going to a little box with the same sort of plug as indicated in the manual (link above)

this box:gif.gif

can i just plug my gauge into this? or is this leading to the ecu or something?

post-37671-1183979213_thumb.jpg

found out it's actually the MAP sensor and have had one person tell me its fine to plug straight into that, another saying it won't be suitable for an aftermarket gauge....

i'll just splice into the wires and see how i go for a while and look at changing it to this http://www.nengun.com/apexi/avc-r (499-X002) $79 + deliv.

ok.....so now i'm trying to work out which wires on the map sensor correspond to the wires for my gauge.

anybody know what each of the wires from the map sensor are?

white:

greenish blue:

red:

or anyone know if the wires that connect an apexi boost gauge to a MAP/boost sensor are different to:

red: power

black: ground?

white: signal?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...