Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just looking for a little insight here....

I pulled apart my 26 today, just wondering whether these are stocko pistons or not.

Also, one of the rods is diff in terms of the numbers on it, need to know whether this is a 26 rod or not. The one on the left is the odd one out, its also a little lighter in colour compared to the others, and has grounding marks on it for balancing.

Thanks for the help!

Mat.

post-17897-1183968828_thumb.jpg

post-17897-1183968998_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175874-these-stock-pistons-this-a-26-rod/
Share on other sites

standard rods

Yeah i know theyre standard but is the odd one out a 26 rod and should it just be used anyway?

Edit: theyre not physically different, its just the numbers that are completely different.

Thanks alot for the intell guys.

Anyone got some n1 pistons for sale?

they are batch numbers. the "o5u" is the common denonomator. from the look of it its a typical buget jap rebuild. n1 pistons with some standard rods. hows the crank?

more than likly its sufferd a spun bearing and been rebuilt fron a parts bin. nothing wrong with that just yeah..

Didnt get time to pull the crank out today but will do and inspect it tomorrow.

Yeah the crank has extra grounding and drillings, it looks as if it has been fully balanced.

With the rods i was thinking it could be a 25 rod or something like that, as gtr rods are used as upgrades etc etc...

Thanks again T04

They are both Rb26 rods , looks like at some stage the changed one ( different batch number and probably newer) so the lighter colour . The pistons are stock Nissan N1's ( 24u mark on them) but they are 1mm oversise so 87 mm bore ( thats the 100 on them near the dot that indicates the front of the piston ). 50 is .5 mm oversise and standard size have st there ( or something like that ).

Here is a pic of a complete set of rods that are the same batch .

post-5240-1184038327_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...