Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Edit : NOW UP! follow the link :rolleyes:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=177294

-------------------------------------------------------------------

hey everyone hows it going?

i have been talking to the owner of AM-Performance about some custom coil pack covers for the RB25 that he makes.. basically they are a metal cover with a custom cut pattern into it (as you will see from the pictures), powder coated with oil and heat resistant paint so nothing will be peeling off. also a variety of colours

im looking to see if he can do the trade mark "STAGEA" text up the middle of the cover, also for a different design if he can cut the double unicorn stagea logo in the middle.. here are some of his previous products to give you a bit of a idea

32a8scddl3.jpg

56c0scdlp6.jpg

62d5scddq9.jpg

6667scdzp8.jpg

7674scdut2.jpg

ab75scdzv8.jpg

d4cascdya5.jpg

f92dscdjk2.jpg

he has told me that the price will be $130 plus $15 postage (aus wide) for a minimum of 5 people, so im sure with more people we can get it cheaper

still currently getting more information and pictures to give you all a better idea of what the product is, but just after rough numbers as to who would be interested?

these look like a great product and as far as i can gather we will be able to make our own design's..

so post up and let me know if your interested :D cheers :D

Edited by Brycey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175938-proposed-group-buy-coil-pack-cover/
Share on other sites

just waiting on some more pictures and information from the AM-Performance.. also might broaden the GB and organise some designs for skylines aswell

i think its either going to be available in polished, or the powder coated + heat and oil resist paint in lots of colours (black, white, blue, red etc etc)

obviously with the cross over pipe taking up alot of the room towards the rear of the cover, the design will be more focused at the front and maybe just some grill's under the cross over pipe, like this one

f92dscdjk2.jpg

so just a few ideas, one could just have the stagea double unicorn at the front, one could just have the stagea text, then there is all the performance brand's if that’s your thing (eg Nismo, HKS, etc)

its really good because we can make it what we want.. ill post up when i have some more pictures and info :)

What about the neo cover? that means we will have to lose it.

can we get somthing that has the the double unicorn at the back so you can see it when the neo cover is still on

intersted as long as i get to keep the neo cover.

keep us in the loop.

do we all have to get the same color?

(cos my favrote color is Chrome.)

I'd be keen, but i want mine painted in black, but id still want the cut out's of the unicorn and stagea

:) i agree but put Stgea first and the Unicorn.nrocinU last

(so those who keep there neo cover get to see Unicorn.nrocinU)

that i i will cut the center out of the neo cover. :)

alright everyone, follow the link if you want to buy one! lots more pics, lots more info - follow the link!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=177294

Ben - details up now buddy!

Matt - yeah probably gonna need to remove the neo cover.. im more going to get getting one for the uniqueness, airflow and to have a nice little double unicorn up the front :D you could possibly cut the neo cover up (for example cut out the dark grey bit out of the centre of the neo cover to expose the coil pack cover) but other than that, not much you can do mate

Johnny - yeah mate sure can, follow the link for more information :)

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...