Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I listed them in the CWT because I was GOING to use them, but didn't in the end.... Reason was funds so I'm nit sure how their work is. I will need to get some rust repaired in the next month so if you use them let us know the end result, cheers

Had a chat with them today. They used to be McEntees, now with new owner (and name obviously). Their work used to be very good.

They are hell busy ATM, but hopefully can fit me in before Autosalon. Will let you know how they go if I use them.

Alpha one panel and paint, have used them 3 times before and have been very happy, jus up the road there from WA suspensions..... block behind Zest on scarborough beach road.

Alpha 1 Panel and Paint

Unit 18/50 Howe Street

Osborne Park

p.H. 9444 7499

Cheers

Brad :)

my cousin has his 32 GTR going in to a panel shop on O'Malley St on the 16th July. i dont know the name of it but I can tell you its pretty much opposite a company called Star Plumbing.

They have provided a very good cash quote to remove rust from a 32 GTR.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...