Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, these otomoto turbos are known for being very laggy for the power they produce, wouldnt recommend a VG30 turbo, just an rb25 one and get it highflowed if you wan t anymore, keep the smaller exhaust housing to move the powerband down in the rev range, still make up to about 250rwkw with a highflow

SLIDE RB25 highflow for RB20 would be the best option, price wise as well.

People have made awesome power, and there not THAT laggy..

Check out "Rb20 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results" thread if your thinking about upgrading your turbo, some proven results in there.

Thanks,

Abu

i know someone who is putting 1 of these (pretty sure it was this one and not the 480) onto his rb20. he has it all on but is yet to get it tuned. will let you know how it goes. should be better than the t70 that was on there. that didn't boost till 6000rpm.

For the money i would go a highflow as well.

There is a bit of modification that you have to do to make the KKR fit.

At the end of the day its like everything else and you get what you pay for.

The KKR kits are cheap and there are people making good power with them but they do rely on there warranty to sell the product from what i can gather. For less stress i go a 20/25 highflow from Slide and do it right the first time :thumbsup:

GMB

Laggy, the same as an rb25 turbo, but bigger exhaust housing and different compressor wheel(i believe)more tuned to low boost, so when you put it on an rb20 its laggy and inefficient, heaqps better to go with an rb25 turbo, and get it highflowed if needed

Ive got a 430 on my rb20.

Had to modify the water lines, oil lines bolted up, also had to grind some of the comp cover (it touched the exhaust manifold)

i'm running gtr injectors, microtech lt12s, walbro pump, cooler, straight through exhaust, stock internal motor, no cam gears.

made 210rwkw with 19psi

i've got full boost just at 4000rpm in second, slightly earlier in higher gears.

Ive been running this power for 9 months and not had a problem. The car see's drift track too, so its thrashed fair good :laugh:

my 2c worth

Due to personal health issue's i am no longer making the highflows sorry guys.

Hopefully soon when things are sorted out i can go back to them but for now just trying to get better :(

Sorry to hear mate.

Your health is more important and hopefully you recover soon and get well..

Good luck, and take care.

Hope to see those high flows in the future :)

Thanks,

Abu

  • 1 year later...

hey mate,

i just put a moc kkr430 on my r32 rb20det and they have WAY to much lag, if you gonna bomb shit outta your motor then ok, but for minor upgrades i would say go a T04E, thats what i'm getting now for mine.

but it is fun when you finally hit 4000rpm and full boost...lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...