Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When it collapsed, what did the car actually do? Did it just lose all power and not make any more? What made you know it was the cat?

was on the dyno for a tune, but made same as before with too much timing

as soon as I picked it up it felt restricted, could tell really, tuners said check the cat and fix the fmic pipe

so checked the cat, was all warped inside and bent, cleared it out, then back on the dyno to fix the crap tune

206kw at 14psi, but the turbo is now the restriction - then redid the fmic so it works real well now, as 1 corner was warped and not letting thru 100% volume

now with 16psi feels fantastic, reckoning around 210kw dynobum

down 25kw with the turbo, so looking for a garret bb I can alter with my housings to harness 235awkw (auto heavy stag)

headwork makes the engine feel like a 25/30 so Im happy as larry, just need to get a better flowing bb turbo

post-18854-1238029594_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I had a metal cat (barrel type) last for two years then finally kark it on a dyno tune. Went from 20psi to 11psi due to guts of cat blocking the exhaust a little. It was rattling around due to it separating from the body. Bits were shooting out the back lol.

Anyway, ended up getting a new one and this seems to be the mark II. It has a rod welded across the back of the matrix to stop the guts moving around I guess when it heats up and cools down.

I'll see how it goes.

I reckon thats more work than unbolting the exhaust from the front pipe (because you've gotta get a pressure sensor then :P)

Yeah i guess so for those , but its something to keep in the tool box forever once its done...... i should make a heap up and sell them i think !

I do far to many cars to not have one with me..... and ALL dyno shops should have one anyway ! So easy to just whack it in and log on a second map channel. !

Hey i just re-read your comment and you said "you've gotta get a pressor 'sensor'" ...... all i mean is make up an adaptor (18*1.5mm thread to hose barb adaptor, and using some silicon hose , plumb it to a spare, or your current, "BOOST" gauge ...) ...can't get much simpler than that !

Gary

my 5inch catco went the same way as sean gtr's.

It just worked it's self loose around the edges and proceeded to unravel from the outside of the substrate.

The outsides of the cat didn't have a mark on it from scraping or anything so i figured it was a manufacturing fault. other than the separation the guts looked good, no melting or whatever. It got punched out and flames started to appear on over run :D

Turbine Inlet Pressure. Anothers words, measure the pressure in the exhaust manifold. This will give you the info to work out the MIP to TIP ratio ( boost to exh mani pressure) , If its over 2:1 then your in trouble.

With high exh backpressure, due to small turbo housings or restricted exhaust, larger overlap cams just give it more time to pollute the intake charge more, and drop the knock point, resulting in less power.

Hence why changing to a larger exh housing generally allows more timing to be added, due to less intake charge poluting.

If you've run out of things to check, this is the ultimate thing to check to check the turbo sizing to the job your asking it to do. Bit of an effort , but its quality data when you get it.

Gary

Edited by Fastrotor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...