Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When it collapsed, what did the car actually do? Did it just lose all power and not make any more? What made you know it was the cat?

was on the dyno for a tune, but made same as before with too much timing

as soon as I picked it up it felt restricted, could tell really, tuners said check the cat and fix the fmic pipe

so checked the cat, was all warped inside and bent, cleared it out, then back on the dyno to fix the crap tune

206kw at 14psi, but the turbo is now the restriction - then redid the fmic so it works real well now, as 1 corner was warped and not letting thru 100% volume

now with 16psi feels fantastic, reckoning around 210kw dynobum

down 25kw with the turbo, so looking for a garret bb I can alter with my housings to harness 235awkw (auto heavy stag)

headwork makes the engine feel like a 25/30 so Im happy as larry, just need to get a better flowing bb turbo

post-18854-1238029594_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I had a metal cat (barrel type) last for two years then finally kark it on a dyno tune. Went from 20psi to 11psi due to guts of cat blocking the exhaust a little. It was rattling around due to it separating from the body. Bits were shooting out the back lol.

Anyway, ended up getting a new one and this seems to be the mark II. It has a rod welded across the back of the matrix to stop the guts moving around I guess when it heats up and cools down.

I'll see how it goes.

I reckon thats more work than unbolting the exhaust from the front pipe (because you've gotta get a pressure sensor then :P)

Yeah i guess so for those , but its something to keep in the tool box forever once its done...... i should make a heap up and sell them i think !

I do far to many cars to not have one with me..... and ALL dyno shops should have one anyway ! So easy to just whack it in and log on a second map channel. !

Hey i just re-read your comment and you said "you've gotta get a pressor 'sensor'" ...... all i mean is make up an adaptor (18*1.5mm thread to hose barb adaptor, and using some silicon hose , plumb it to a spare, or your current, "BOOST" gauge ...) ...can't get much simpler than that !

Gary

my 5inch catco went the same way as sean gtr's.

It just worked it's self loose around the edges and proceeded to unravel from the outside of the substrate.

The outsides of the cat didn't have a mark on it from scraping or anything so i figured it was a manufacturing fault. other than the separation the guts looked good, no melting or whatever. It got punched out and flames started to appear on over run :D

Turbine Inlet Pressure. Anothers words, measure the pressure in the exhaust manifold. This will give you the info to work out the MIP to TIP ratio ( boost to exh mani pressure) , If its over 2:1 then your in trouble.

With high exh backpressure, due to small turbo housings or restricted exhaust, larger overlap cams just give it more time to pollute the intake charge more, and drop the knock point, resulting in less power.

Hence why changing to a larger exh housing generally allows more timing to be added, due to less intake charge poluting.

If you've run out of things to check, this is the ultimate thing to check to check the turbo sizing to the job your asking it to do. Bit of an effort , but its quality data when you get it.

Gary

Edited by Fastrotor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...