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Bleeding Clutch

The Dan

By The Dan,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

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The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
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I saw that many people have trouble bleeding their clutch so I thought I would add this.

It is step by step, it works well for fluid flushes ect. but if you are installing a new master cylinder or lines you may need to 'repeat' the repeat steps.

I have referred to the fluid dampener as "funny little box" as this is what my customer called it and this was my reply to him...just cut and paste.

Bleeding MUST be done in the following way:

Fill reservoir (obviously)

Have someone watch level at ALL times as it only takes 4 pumps to drain it dry.

Following line is ONLY if reservoir has been empty.

1. Open line that goes into master....then apply clutch pedal.

2. Close off line....then return clutch pedal to original height.

3. Repeat 1 and 2 one more time.

4. Open line from master into 'funny little box'....then apply clutch pedal.

5. Close off line...then return pedal to original height

6. Repeat 4 and 5 one more time

Make sure you have someone checking the fluid level.

7. Open line out of 'funny little box'...then apply clutch pedal

8. Close off line...then return pedal

9. Repeat 7 and 8

10. Are you getting the idea? Move to the next line in sequence as you get closer to the slave. Making sure to include the bleeder on the 'funny little box'

The bleed must be done at each hose connection otherwise it will never be right. I have sometimes done it without doing each one but if you do it to all then it ALWAYS turns out good at the end.

Once you get to the slave just do the same as above. It must be - OPEN - PEDAL DOWN - CLOSE - PEDAL UP

Once you have done that twice on the slave and have closed the line off you can get the guy operating the pedal to pump the clutch pedal 5 or 6 times

Then when he holds it down you can open the line then close it again before he returns the pedal.

This should only need to be done once...if at all.

The pedal should be spot on at this point.

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The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

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Posted

Pics?

There's an easier way if you haven't completely drained the whole system.

From the slave cylinder only - crack the bleed nipple, push the throwout fork towards the cylinder (forcing the pushrod into the slave)....while it's in, close the bleed nipple, then release the fork. The internal spring will force the piston in the slave out. This will draw the fluid through.

rinse and repeat.

If you really want photos I will post them up on the next one I do but it's really simple if you follow the instructions in the top post or this one.

The only problem with the second way is that if the fluid was completely drained dry, you will need to bleed the master first, then gravity bleed til it comes out the slave, then follow the instructions in this post.

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Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

hey, thanks for that. i'm still pretty new to this stuff, i don't actually know where the master and slave cylinders are... i think if i could see it i'd understand it more if i could see it.

im having trouble with the clutch, it doesn't seem to fully disengage at high rpm, so i want to change the clutch fluid as opposed to just bleeding it. so much to learn lol, thanks for the help. if you could put some pics up it'd be awesome, thank you

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our12 Enthusiast

our12

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Posted

Hi.

Just something to add. If you take your slave cylinder out to repair or simply look at when you refit it the bleeder must always be at the highest point as air always goes to the highest point.If its at the lowest point you will never bleed it succesfully. Had a mates brother who used 2 litres of brake fluid trying to bleed a slave cylinder- you gueesed it he had the bleeder at the lowest point and could not understand it was wrong as it was more convenient to get his bleeder tube onto the nipple when at the bottom.

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The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

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hey am i doing something wrong i've done the above procedure about 6 times and the clutch pedal is still going all the way down to the floor?

Cheers

Chi

It depends on what you did. Did you change the master cylinder for a new one?

If so, the master cylinder needs to be bled before installation (preferably) or you can do it after at the line that exits or if there is a bleed nipple on the master. Alternatively a lot of the time, you may have the system bled correctly but the master cylinder pushrod adjustment is incorrect which, in some cases, can make the pedal drop to the floor seeming like there is no pressure. When you change a master cylinder you need to ensure the pushrod fork is exactly the same dimensions as the original one and make sure the adjustment is close.

Bleeding the system is the easiest part

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The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

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Hey elite racing I didn't change the clutch master at all mmm I did ur step by step process still not working :/ clutch pedal still feels like there's nothing

Ok try this:

Get someone to watch the fluid level and top up as necessary.

Step 1: Open bleed nipple on slave cylinder

Step 2: Push clutch throwout fork towards slave cylinder so it pushes the pushrod back into the cylinder (fluid will come out of bleed nipple)

Step 3: While holding the pushrod still pushed in, close the bleed nipple

Step 4: Let go of the throwout fork and let the slave cylinder return outward

Repeat until no more air comes out. If no air comes out, then you have another issue.

Why are you bleeding it?

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The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

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mmm what other issue could it be if just fluids coming out? after i do the above procedure?

Check to see if the pushrod on the slave moves at all when the pedal is depressed. Even if it's a small amount.

Did you put the throwout fork on properly? Bearing on the carrier properly? You remembered to install the clutch?

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Chi100188 Mentor

Chi100188

Posted
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well the push rod does move but really little yeah i put it the way i took it off so it should be correct? and i didn't remove the gear box from engine i took the whole thing out in one go so didn't have to touch the clutch hmmm

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topher_ Proficient

topher_

Posted
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Heard there was some special thing to do when bleeding the 32 gtr which involves something in the kick panel, can't remember what the guy was talking about and was hoping someone could elaborate or tell me if he's making shit up? Putting my clutch in tonight and just wanna know

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  • 2 months later...
SkyHi_33 Mentor

SkyHi_33

Posted
Posted

Thought id continue on in this thread.

Basically, changed clutch, changed to braided line, all the fluid i had bled out in the process.

Now i cant get any of the fluid from the master reservoir to suck in to the system no matter how many and which nipples i play with :P

Been told there's a bypass vacuum line in the kick panel but not sure what im looking at. Help!!!

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