Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically the way it works is...

The intercooler cools the air that your turbo is sucking in before it goes into your engine. This means that, due to the lower temperature, the air is more compressed. There is therefore more air per unit volume. This means that more air is able to go into your engine and create a bigger bang making more power.

With a front mount, esspecially on RB's, you can get more lag due to the piping going all over the top of the engine. This means that the air needs to stay at that particular pressure for longer to get into the engine creating longer lag. If you shorten the piping with a different intake plenum. eg GReddy, lag will be reduced again as the air has less distance to travel.

Hope this helps.

P.S If I just confused you, or if anyone thinks I'm talking crap... feel free to explain further :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176777-intercooler/#findComment-3231909
Share on other sites

I need an intercooler. Are those M-Spec ones on JustJap anygood? or should I just get one of those cooling pro ones?

PS. Im a tight arse >_<

Im guessing they would be alright, i dont know anyone with one but still would be ok i guess, unless someone has had problems with them and wants to correct me.

Im currently using a monza 300 x 600 x 75 cooler and for a cheaper brand its very good and the quality isnt too bad either, im happy with it. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176777-intercooler/#findComment-3231957
Share on other sites

just buy a greddy m-spec kit, cost is around $600-$700 depending where you get it from.

they may be a about $200 more pricey than the china kits, but the quality of the pipe work is excellent and you know it will bolt in no problems. also the greddy endtanks are better than the china coolers endtanks

just my 2cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176777-intercooler/#findComment-3231984
Share on other sites

if your keeping car relativly stock i wouldnt worry about putting one on.. you wont notice any power increases if thats the only mod your planing to do..

but i would chuck one on if you wanna chuck some more boost into etc etc

also Fmic look awsome

ps pay someone to do it.. its not as easy as everyone says it is to put on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176777-intercooler/#findComment-3232151
Share on other sites

Alright thanks for that info. I really just like the look of intercoolers dont think I'm planning on doing major engine modifications I mean im only 18 and want to live lol :) plus im getting 400R front so thought I may as well get it together.

Cheers, sorry for hijacking thread lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176777-intercooler/#findComment-3232998
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...