Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I noticed that the boot was leaking in my Series I R33 GTS25t..there was water in the spare tyre well and also down the side where the jack is kept (left hand side when standing behind the car) but the right had side was pretty much dry..is there any common places that it leaks that i can block up with silicone or something? Any ideas? Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177167-r33-boot-leaking/
Share on other sites

I had this same thing. Was coming in the tail lights. Is there moisture build up in you lights? It will show up most inyou indicators. You can take it off and reseal it. Just don't get the sealant on your paint. Its a real pain to get off

Its definitly not from the spoiler, boot seal and theres no rust at the bottom of the window so it cant be from there..it may be the tail lights because i can see sort of "water marks" where water has been and left trails and dried up at the back of the lights..i might check the window wiper too..how hard is it to change the seal on the window wiper?

I've got an R32 sedan and I found about 5+litres of water in the jack area of my boot :laugh:

I have no idea as to where it's come from. The boot area is all dry, it's just the jack area and the other side.

It's been about a week since I sucked out all the water and it's rained quite a lot down here in Melbourne. I might check later today to see how much water is in there now.

I've got an R32 sedan and I found about 5+litres of water in the jack area of my boot :)

I have no idea as to where it's come from. The boot area is all dry, it's just the jack area and the other side.

It's been about a week since I sucked out all the water and it's rained quite a lot down here in Melbourne. I might check later today to see how much water is in there now.

i had the same problem a while back.

i took out the rubber grommets at the bottom of the sides of the boot and it poured out everywhere :D

i went to the car wash when it was all dry and after washing i found the leak was just under the tail lights. sort of where the boot bends 90 degrees.. (if you get what i mean?)

i got some silicone stuff for metal and went hack.

no more water! :)

Edited by dmr
i had the same problem a while back.

i took out the rubber grommets at the bottom of the sides of the boot and it poured out everywhere :)

i went to the car wash when it was all dry and after washing i found the leak was just under the tail lights. sort of where the boot bends 90 degrees.. (if you get what i mean?)

i got some silicone stuff for metal and went hack.

no more water! :D

I think I know what you're talking about. I remember washing the car awhile back and water used to keep coming out even though I've already dried the car from around the taillight area. I'll try and have a look when I get the time.

Do you have any pictures you can post to show exactly where you're talking about?

Cheers mate.

I think I know what you're talking about. I remember washing the car awhile back and water used to keep coming out even though I've already dried the car from around the taillight area. I'll try and have a look when I get the time.

Do you have any pictures you can post to show exactly where you're talking about?

Cheers mate.

here you go bud. sorry about the bad quality..

post-33759-1185174164_thumb.jpg

ive found a bit in the top of the boot where it also leaks through tho..i checked it thismorning and it seemed to be dripping through there and running down that side pocket..when it dries out ill put sum sikaflex on it an see what happens

  • 2 years later...

I was getting a leak from the boot seals, not the black rubber but the off white sealant on the body work near hydrolic lifting arms that hold the boot up.

Was only getting right hand side leaking but suppose the other side can be the same. The sealant goes hard and cracks. Difficult to see and detect as the leak can change with body temp.

I used to have a leak in my right hand side tail light, followed the DIY here & resealed the lights, however after I did that, water just started to flood the indicator & reverse light area & will eventually overflow to the boot through the opening where you reach to take/replace the light bulbs for the indicator & reverse lights, there seem to be a internal crack somewhere in the light assembly.

So I had to remove the whole tail light assembly again & drilled some holes on the bottom side so the water can just drain through.

Now I got no more leaks :D

So for anyone thinking of taking their tail light assembly out, you might as well drill some holes on the underside of it just in case & you can't really see the holes from the outside anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...