Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i am in the process of making an alloy gauge cluster for my dash i will take some before and after pics to show you the procees i take. if you guys would like. might be over a few weeks as i will have to do it in my lunch hours but if you lot want to see i will be mo\re than happy to help you out.

this is me after 4 hours of polishing.

honeymonnandcarpics003gr7.jpg

Edited by 18RZZ
  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i am in the process of making an alloy gauge cluster for my dash i will take some before and after pics to show you the procees i take. if you guys would like. might be over a few weeks as i will have to do it in my lunch hours but if you lot want to see i will be mo\re than happy to help you out.

this is me after 4 hours of polishing.

honeymonnandcarpics003gr7.jpg

Hahahah Ill forgive the photo because of the mass of experience you've written up! HAHAHA

hahaha

oh dear.

Cheers, might get some of the green compound bar and give that a shot.

I am using the bar type compounds which seem to be reasonably hard. now to find some time to get back to it >_<

I’m never polishing anything again, at least nothing as complicated as an RB26 inlet plenum!

I calculated around 40 solid hours to complete, and I didn’t even complete the bottom of it!

- Paint stripped it

- File finished the whole thing, casting marks, letters, deep pits from the sand cast

- Used the above mentioned “fan like” paper sanding drum on the end of a drill, with a small 1” one for between the runners.

- Worked way from 400 600 800 1000 grit. Then went straight to the stitched cotton buffing wheel drill attachment. The finer cutting compound was enough ( I think because I went right up to the 1000 wet and dry)

- Came out really good, I should post some pics up.

I would never ever attempt this again, unless paid an insane amount of money.

Iv heard ppl do a little each night in front of the TV, with it on their lap, but I prefer doing it wet, the paper lasts a lot longer and doesn’t clog.

Get some pics up Michael :)

med_gallery_14713_1542_18915.jpg

med_gallery_14713_1542_142226.jpg

med_gallery_14713_1542_51005.jpg

med_gallery_14713_1542_51005.jpg

med_gallery_14713_1542_19222.jpg

med_gallery_14713_1542_40950.jpg

med_gallery_14713_1542_73224.jpg

med_gallery_14713_1542_73381.jpg

Still not completly done and happy with it, but its not on the car yet. Will go over with 800 > 1000 again, then buff with compound.

In the end, its about time; the thoeroy is there, it just takes time. I couldnt get a sanding tool into between the runners, so its all about how quick your fingers repair from being sore and "finger printless" Just do a few hours every day and use the idea of the pictured product to keep the enthusiasm up haha.

Edited by GeeTR
  • 2 weeks later...

lol i swear these forums are aj city..

i got half an hour into attempting to polish my gee reddy ripoff plenum before f**king it off today :laugh:

what do people usually use to get into all the nooks and crannies associated with plenums and more tricky jobs?

Dan

You Learnt That At Kamp-Pooka?

Didnt ya.

Andrew

  • 1 month later...

Haha Kapooka

I remember good ol pooks, go RAAC, shame we still had to polish the brass up.

We got busted taking a fan apart, sticking wet and dry to the fan centre and using it to polish brass - result: no fan for anyone, 40+ degree days, lots of sweaty nights.

I am in the process of polishing a stock plenum too...WAY too much work, but I have spent too much time to give up now.

lol i swear these forums are aj city..

i got half an hour into attempting to polish my gee reddy ripoff plenum before f**king it off today :)

what do people usually use to get into all the nooks and crannies associated with plenums and more tricky jobs?

I polished my new water pump today (only the top half which will be seen).

I used 400, 800 then 1500 wet and dry and then polished with autosol and a Dremel.

It came up pretty good. :P

After polishing this small part i can now justify the $300 i paid to have my custom stainless intercooler piping mirror polished ! :whistling:

Before

post-24581-1194689570_thumb.jpg

After

post-24581-1194689698_thumb.jpg

Here is some tips and hints etc for polishing that should become handy

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

and here is a funny walkthrough for polishing bike frames

http://forum.caswellplating.com/showthread.php?t=1755

-snismo - that waterpump looks good

I picked up a spare crossover pipe for cheap so decided to have a go at polishing.

Deleted the seams on either side as well as some "unnecessary" fittings just to neaten it up a bit. Then gave it a once over with a 120 grit sanding disk using a drill to get rid of the really rough stuff, then by hand with 180, 400, 800 and 1200 (contemplated 2000 but CBA), then just polished it with some Autosol.

It's by no means perfect, but I'm happy enough, and it almost matches the sheen of the cooler piping.

post-8870-1195038955_thumb.jpg

post-8870-1195038995_thumb.jpg

Haha Kapooka

I remember good ol pooks, go RAAC, shame we still had to polish the brass up.

We got busted taking a fan apart, sticking wet and dry to the fan centre and using it to polish brass - result: no fan for anyone, 40+ degree days, lots of sweaty nights.

I am in the process of polishing a stock plenum too...WAY too much work, but I have spent too much time to give up now.

Pooka is Pooooo, we polished our brass everyday, and didnt even get the use it for march-out!

oh well typical army f**k around :)

wow! all the peices looks really good, i was going to get into over the uni holidayz and i think i just might looks like alot of effort but well worth the finished product (i hope) i going to buy a small bench ginder tomorrow (it is 125mm, 150watt, is this too small)??

Edited by H@ME

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...