Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

Just wanted to find out if anyone here has put a Nitrous/NOS system on a stock GTR or get advice on what Nitrous system to use? I have previously used 'wet' type systems on SR20DET and 4G63T with standard internals. What supporting mods would be recommended? Bigger fuel pump/injectors? Internal/head work?

The car is a R34 Non V-Spec, only has cat-back exhaust and making 300hp atw

Cheers

Edited by Mu Secret
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177366-nitrous-on-a-stock-gtr/
Share on other sites

get round a 50-100 shot wet kit, mount the nozzle just before the throttle body in the silicone which joins it(or rubber as stock)

the fuelpump should be ok if the rest of your engine is stock

basically have a read of a few nitrous sites, nitrous direct etc

only dry kits need bigger injectors or even more flow from the current ones, steer clear of them, dry kits are the ones which require seperate fuel.

Wet kits usually take fuel from the fuel feed line, if you have a stock engine the fuelpump won't be under much stress and is pretty new, so you can use it on that, if not, consider a bosch swimmer pump or an 044 external.

when you install it make sure you retard the timing about 5 degrees, go for two range colder plugs, and test it on a dyno first!!! before taking it to the drag strip

I know nitrous direct do a nice kit for round $800NZD, for 50-190hp, comes with jets upto 95hp and a twin purge valve for that price

just be careful, if you don't know what you are doing, don't do it :D just up the boost on the turbos or remove the restrictor in the boost lines and move from round 0.6bar to 1bar...

get round a 50-100 shot wet kit, mount the nozzle just before the throttle body in the silicone which joins it(or rubber as stock)

the fuelpump should be ok if the rest of your engine is stock

basically have a read of a few nitrous sites, nitrous direct etc

only dry kits need bigger injectors or even more flow from the current ones, steer clear of them, dry kits are the ones which require seperate fuel.

Wet kits usually take fuel from the fuel feed line, if you have a stock engine the fuelpump won't be under much stress and is pretty new, so you can use it on that, if not, consider a bosch swimmer pump or an 044 external.

when you install it make sure you retard the timing about 5 degrees, go for two range colder plugs, and test it on a dyno first!!! before taking it to the drag strip

I know nitrous direct do a nice kit for round $800NZD, for 50-190hp, comes with jets upto 95hp and a twin purge valve for that price

just be careful, if you don't know what you are doing, don't do it :laugh: just up the boost on the turbos or remove the restrictor in the boost lines and move from round 0.6bar to 1bar...

Not sure about a No2 nozzle in the rubber pipe of an R34 GTR at all. And rem, throttle body(s)

I think I rem a story of ole Mr Donnan who knew a girl that picked up a R33 GTST, with another injector plumbed into the area you speak of, cross braced with lots of zip ties and a cordless drill trigger as a 12v modulator. Caught on fire if I remember.

Off topic, wonder if the heat caused by the extra 100hp would be enough to drop a turbine wheel off… even at a 1bar boost limit.

Zex make a clever computer controlled wet kit for around the 1K mark as well.

Don’t get me wrong, im but a forum mechanic when it comes to the stuff but I thought No2 had to be post throttle plate, which on a GTR means multi nozzle, direct port, which bump the cost up a little. Those Puerto Ricans use 800hp worth of No2; the sky’s the limit. The max of your pump, inj, zhaust is all std info attainable from here. You need to let us know your plans with the stuff for a better answer.

Easy enough.

A 100hp-ish shot is probably ok. That will be almost 100rwhp in practice.

You don't need headwork. Nice to have.

You don't need bigger injectors. Nice to have.

You do need to cater for fuel requirements fuel pump wise.

A single fogger plumbed in where the front of the plenum is would be good enough. If space is too tight then make up a 3 inch metal tube section to mount the fogger just before the plenum to replace a section of that rubber pipe. You may need to make a whole new pipe with new silicone joiners. Not really that hard.

Direct port at 150/200hp is a jet clog fest waiting to happen. 250+ and look at one of those I reckon.

You need enough fuel.

For the total power after the nitrous is added. If you have 400hp now and add 100hp then the fuel system needs to supply volume to cater for 500hp.

You need to regulate/measure the nitrous systems fuel requirements (statically)

A rising rate fuel pressure system makes it hard to get the flow rates correct on the fuel jet. You ought to measure them anyway with a bucket/container and a stop watch. Especially if you use NOS brand dodge'o cheap ass 'flare jets' they actually sell 'saphire' range jets that are more accurate but, since flow rates of fuel delivery differ from car to car measure it.

Also the so-called 50/75/100 jet 'kits' are not ever to be trusted as a bolt in match for your car for the above reason. A static pressure reg is the go here. Once you have a fuel per minute flow rate you can pick a couple of jets either side for the gas to tune. Easy but, the number of people who don't bother I find pretty amazing. They give nitrous the bad name it doesn't deserve.

Plugs

1 Heat range colder is all you would need for 100 -150rwhp extra. Use a plug with a nice thick grounding strap, NGK vanilla copper plugs are ok. Avoid any irridium / thin electrode plugs these self cleaning style plugs won't last.

Timing take some out 2-3 deg assuming a safe tune is already in place. Take more out around your peak torque rpm.

Limit the power

You can add as much power as you want but, if 400rwhp is the limit on a standard block then stick to that as an overall power max. Alternatively build the block up and go for it with a big direct port system.

lots of other little and big things for a nice setup.

You have some experience with other cars and nitrous so the same theory applies to this application more or less.

haha too true, i forgot about the whole multiple throttle bodies thing :laugh: only ever having GTS-ts and 4s :S

but yeah, nitrous wet shot, in the rubber end where the cooler pipe connects to the plenum, or even drill a hole in the metal piping and put it in there and gasket it in, either way it should be fine with a low shot, for a higher shot say above 90hp talk to RIPS, he does them all the time, it's all about the right sparkplugs, timing,fuelling and tuning :domokun:

- as for adding another injector in, don't do it :( it's dangerous and could catch fire, that's for dry shots, you won't need to do that, wet shots have both fuel/nitrous in one shot, it mixes them through different jets :D and works well :)

- "Off topic, wonder if the heat caused by the extra 100hp would be enough to drop a turbine wheel off… even at a 1bar boost limit.-

nah it will be fine ;) it won't push the turbo any harder and nitrous is a cooler ;) it's freezing :S it basically cools your engine when you insert it, some people actually use kits with NO2 or CO2 to chill their intercoolers :)

- nah, past the throttle plate on a GTR would be the head of the engine itself? well the small spacer? that's only for direct port, which is pretty good, it uses your stock injectors and they plug into the ports, which gives you extreme control over the lean/richness of the shot, only problem with that is, you can't go taht small, think 200hp is the minimum :S, I'd say go wet shot, NItrous Direct, NOS, or Zex kit, that computer controlled kit might be worth checking out :)

and if you are really worried maybe bump up your fuel pressure every so slightly, just so none of your cylinders lean out

whoops, forgot to put a link:

Here's the kit just down from my one:

http://www.nitrousdirect.com/nitrous/index...product_id=1787

I got this kit, except with different nitrous bottle and circular solanoids, + dual purge, it works well :laugh: and should suit your needs

another benefit as well for you:

In turbo applications, turbo lag is completely eliminated with the addition of a nitrous system. Both turbo and superchargers compress the incoming air, thus heating it. With the injection of nitrous, a tremendous intercooling effect reduces intake charge temperatures by 75 degrees or more. Boost is usually increased as well, adding even more power.

It'll probably be close to a grand installed and ready to run, plus i think round 150 to fill? maybe more?

so I suggest looking at teh GCG high flows or the other high flow section in the group buys and getting maybe a couple of high flows, or do a search for N1 Turbos(r33-r34) as they should get you a lot more power than the Nitrous kit itself and you'd be able to use them on the street

although bear in mind with both upgrades - your fuelpump and clutch will probably wear out sooner, so might need to save to upgrade those and with the N1 turbos while you can get an FPR and crank the fuel pressure up, your better off getting injectors and a chipped ECU or PowerFC

PM me if you want tips on setting a kit up ,there are a few people you can chat to on this forum who know how to do it right. You will find you get more confusion from threads like this with people who have never set one up giving you all kinds of information ,most of it rubbish (no offence to the people who have contributed to this thread by the way, it's just a count down to the Fast and the furious part of this forum to start posting).

Have a go and have fun :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...