Jump to content
SAU Community

To Shim Or Not To Shit

DjeMz
 Share

Recommended Posts

DjeMz Mentor

DjeMz

Posted
Posted

hey all

i have a dilemma

i have a kaaz 1.5lsd that isnt locking anymore... ppl tell me all i need to do is change the oil (hasnt been changed since the car came to oz) n it should lock again, but i think i want a 2way..

now unless someone wants to directly swap me a 1.5 for a 2 way id be more then happy to.

i dont care about tire wear, noise, clunks ect, i just want 50/50 lock

do i shim it to make it really tight?

or do i weld it for good.

only reason why i dont wanna weld it is that im running 240rwkw n dont wanna be breaking driveshafts.. i have a rb25 box, that should be fine with 240 + weld right??

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177909-to-shim-or-not-to-shit/
Share on other sites
sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
Posted
only reason why i dont wanna weld it is that im running 240rwkw n dont wanna be breaking driveshafts.. i have a rb25 box, that should be fine with 240 + weld right??

cheers!

what are you using it for?

you won't break driveshafts with it boc-locked, but you will have to be on your game in the wet

and of course, it'll be illegal for street use

the rest of this thread has been pointless :pirate:

  • 2 weeks later...
Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

shimming it is a povo way of increasing the pre-load.

if it's a drift car, minispool. had one in the R31 and it loved being sideways.

if it's a street car, get the 1.5 way sorted. locked diffs are illegal and dangerous in the wet, and they compromise the handling badly unless you ARE sideways.

DjeMz Mentor

DjeMz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i went off and bought a whole new diff which is locked, that solves my 1.5 problem, if the locker shits me, i will sell the locker n rebuild the 1.5 i guesss

how is a locker so dangerous? are we talkin that it just make u spin heaps easy?

when will i have handeling problems? at high speed? or just around a corner?

Thunderbolt Rising Star

Thunderbolt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thing with lockers is that it effectively isn't a diff at all. The inside rear wheel will always rotate at the same speed as the outside.

To the in-experienced, it will understeer a lot and you need to use aggression at all times to get it to turn a corner. This is why it can be dangerous. Once you are used to it, I am sure that you will be fine.

Edited by Thunderbolt
GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted
do i shim it to make it really tight?

or do i weld it for good.

only reason why i dont wanna weld it is that im running 240rwkw n dont wanna be breaking driveshafts.. i have a rb25 box, that should be fine with 240 + weld right??

I currently have a welded diff, making 400+rwkw, and all I can say is it's hell nasty on the street, but bareable on the track/strip.

I'm in the process of getting a shimmed GTR diff put in so it's not such a pig on the street.

DjeMz Mentor

DjeMz

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I installed the diff today

just got back from a 4 hour mountain run, there was a tad bit of understeer but only when speeds were under say 40km and we went around a fairly sharp bend... nothing dangerous at all, understeer (caused by the diff) wasnt noticeable at high speeds

my front tyres were causing more understeer then anything

in the car park the inside tyre just spins, no clunks, no ugly noises nothing, im actually pleased with the way the diff is behaving. its far better when other lockers + mini spools i have been in

straight line traction (take off, + i used to have wheelspin in 3rd) has increased so much i cant believe it.

overall result

big smile on my face :whistling:

Edited by DjeMz
cosworth1971 Community Regular

cosworth1971

Posted
Posted
I installed the diff today

just got back from a 4 hour mountain run, there was a tad bit of understeer but only when speeds were under say 40km and we went around a fairly sharp bend... nothing dangerous at all, understeer (caused by the diff) wasnt noticeable at high speeds

my front tyres were causing more understeer then anything

in the car park the inside tyre just spins, no clunks, no ugly noises nothing, im actually pleased with the way the diff is behaving. its far better when other lockers + mini spools i have been in

straight line traction (take off, + i used to have wheelspin in 3rd) has increased so much i cant believe it.

overall result

big smile on my face :P

people wont tell you but a locked diff will give u bad understeer so much so u wont have the adjustment of castor in the front end to fix it.locked if u want to drive sideways 90% of the time otherwize ur just making huge wear on axles,tyres and drive line.I use a locker in my rally car but thats a rally car :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Tomei gasket

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Marek
      Hi everyone.

      By Marek · Posted

      Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Marek
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Marek · Posted

      Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
×
×
  • Create New...