Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, so i installed them tonight

Gripes:

They have no thorough instructions

the ones that are in it, only showed how to remove the old coilpacks, and its not just a reverse installation...

Second

You cant just reinstall them into your old coilpack holders

it doesnt work...at all

you can install one bolt on each one, but when you put them on the car in the holder, its misaligned

so i didnt use it

BUt, when you install them without the holder, they are rather secure

they flop around but dont pull upwards, we shall see how it works out

It helped my idle immensly

its still high, but much more even

i also replaced plugs along with the coilpacks

TOmorrow ill bring it out for a test run before i install the wideband and SAFC2

see if it improved my boost problem at all...

anyways, more to come

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177931-splitfire-coilpacks/
Share on other sites

the one thing I did notice .. whilst reading the instuctions on how to change the coilpacks

I think the NEO uses a slightly different configuration than the non neo motors.

Looking at the how to article.. it seems that on the non NEO motors.. the coilpacks are grouped in 3 and attached to a plate ( 2 plates for 6 coilpacks ) on the NEO the coilpacks are just held in with 2 screws per coilpack. If you got the right coilpacks for the motor . and they are not a direct fit , I would be complaining or seeking re-embursment.

there is only one set for all years WGNC34

the non neo has the bracket that are grouped in 3

ill make some kind of bracket , not a big deal

just didnt know if it was only me that had that problem or not

maybe i have an odd holder?

i dunno

doesnt work for me...ghey

i cant speak for performance

but it improved my idle alot, its alot more smoothe

im installing my HKS acutator in like 10 minutes nad ill let you know how it performs once i get my boost back.

i think my wastegate is failing

man its going to be a bit of a headf*ck to make the bracket up accurately .

why not just send em back and say they dont fit? will be a lot easier.

from what I could see of the bracket that groups the 3 coil packs together it looks like its

made out of reasonably thick ally plate. Or why not just see if you can get that plate from

a wreakers etc?

well, theo problem is i bought them from a used place, but htey wre brand new

i got em for 350 USD

which is like 250 less than everywhere else

SO...its owrth the hastle, ill just trim off the mounting parts that cover hte larger holes, and get a piece of metal and make like a T with the bolt and metal to hold htem down.

shoudl only take an hour or so

well, theo problem is i bought them from a used place, but htey wre brand new

i got em for 350 USD

which is like 250 less than everywhere else

try buying your parts thru www.nengun.com (they are in Japan)

They are only $375 USD new for the right ones

I have been called worse haha..

no its just the 1st time doing it .. was just a bit of a pain .. compared to some of the other cars I have worked on . That and the breather hose being rock hard etc etc etc..

but .. got my good 1/4 drive ratchet set.. so those pesky alan keys holding the cover on dont stand a chance now.

plugs are hard to change?

Your crazy for saying that!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...