Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Very curious... :stupid:

How much protection does a "3 point immobiliser" give?

What factors influence how "good" an security system is?

I regularly see Viper, Cobra, Mongoose (and other animals) alarms advertised... Surely with them being so readily available, theives can work out how to bypass them pretty easily (i.e. look at instalation guide)... Is this the case?

Would appreciate comments installers/ those with technical knowledge of these systems.

Cheers.

Col.

the more points the better, what it means that it cuts the signal at three different places that are vital top starting the car. I consider a 2way paging alarm essential these days as it tells you when your alarm goes off. Also the more you pay generally the more sensors you get. Another thing is things like code hopping which means its a million times harder for theives to use radio frequency devices to open your car. Black wiring is something that insurance companys like and generally is a good idea but in saying that if you get your alarm install by someone good then you shouldnt be able to find any wires without having to take half the car apart. I hope that i have given you an insight into whats importatant in an alarm.

yeah three points is very good :thumbsup: classed as a 5-star i think(top of the line)

although i think 4point alarms are coming out

3 point is generally: fuelpump, ignition and starter

Although, bear in mind, most people won't bother screwing with an alarm, they'll just put it on a tow truck, its happened to a few of my friends cars and no one took down the number plate of the tow truck, because it looked like a simple parking violation

as for looking at the installation guide - the wires are black on most 3 point alarms, so i doubt they'd be able to bypass them that fast :thumbsup: it'd take them at least a few minutes or more to do it, probably rip out the membrane and bridge the wires, they'd need a wiring diagram for the car too in that case though and most thieves are after just a quick snatch and grab - :thumbsup: i hate thieves!!!

Realistically, if a professional theive wants your car he'll take it, but the basic 3 point immobiliser will work as well as the person who fitted it.

The theive will automatically go for under the dash, if all the wires are exposed and he can easilly find the unit then your in a bit of trouble, thats when experienced fitters will make everything look standard and hidden to make it harder.

You will also want a backup battery siren thats nicely hidden so they don't just jam a cordless drill through it and shut it up (which i've seen happen before)

But a normal immobiliser/ alarm unit will deter the odd f**kwit that tries to break into your car.

Never tell people or have a sticker on your car showing what the unit is.

Hope this helps... good luck :thumbsup:

yeah three points is very good :thumbsup: classed as a 5-star i think(top of the line)

although i think 4point alarms are coming out

5-point :thumbsup:

http://www.brant.com.au/Content_Common/pg-ZX500-GOLD.seo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...