Jump to content
SAU Community

Initialdrift Drift Day At Oran Park Skidpan - Sunday 5th Of August

Bakadesu!!!

By Bakadesu!!!,
in Events Archive

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bakadesu!!! Apprentice

Bakadesu!!!

Posted
Posted

D-Day Practice, Oran Park Skidpan - 5th August 2007

InitialDrift is holding a drift day at Oran Park's enormous (over 400m long) skidpan. A great opportunity to practice skills for the main circuit in a low-impact environment, or for beginners to make their debut.

Two different layouts will be running simultaneously with cars constantly being sent on runs. There's no groups or sessions. All you need to do is queue up and run when you feel like it on whichever course you like.

The courses will include a fishtail practice and wide-diameter donut course, as well as a multiple corner cone course on the main skidpan, the layout of which will be changed throughout the day.

Want to see a map? CLICK HERE!

  • ATTENTION BEGINNERS!
    If you've been wanting to try out drifting, this is the time to do it. There's only one car at a time on each layout, and plenty of run-off in every direction. First and second gear are all you will need for most of the day. The track will be dry all day, but since the surface of the pan is dusty concrete, you won't have much trouble getting a car sliding. Trust us, it's almost useless to drift in the wet. A few pairs of cheapie second hand tires should keep you going for quite a while, but bring as many as you can.The best part is, unlike most InitialDrift events, you don't need to hold a CAMS licence or any club membership to drive this day You don't even need a driver's licence or car registration. All you need to do is pay $25 extra for a day licence, and you're set.
  • FOR THE MORE ADVANCED!
    This is the place to practice your low-speed technical drift. We'll be using two different cone layouts for everyone to get their fundamental skills up a bit. The manji (fishtail) and wide donut layout were quite popular last time, and in the afternoon, we change the layout of the skidpan to include a longer entry and large, sweeping corner.
  • YOUR CAR WILL NEED TO PASS SCRUTINEERING - Working seatbelts or valid harnesses, properly installed seats, working brakelights and no leaks are the basics. Any questions, please ask.
  • YOU WILL NEED AN AS1698 (that little red and silver sticker) APPROVED HELMET, LONG SLEEVES, PANTS AND CLOSED SHOES - We won't be using the helmets for the slower layouts, but one will be needed for the afternoon session due to the higher speeds.
  • A free sausage sizzle and drink will be provided for all drivers who enter.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS: --> Click here to read.

PRICELIST:

Initial Drift Club Member: $90

Non-member/Associate member: $110

Day Licence: $25

Yearly Initial Drift Membership: $170 for the first year. Includes t-shirt, stickers, membership card and discounts on track day prices and free gate entry to most events. Available on the day. Get this if you intend to do a lot of track days. Renewal is $120 per year.

Yearly Associate Membership: $50 per year. Gives you membership in a CAMS affiliated club and the ability to hold a CAMS L2NS licence, which is required for most of our events. No other benefits. Available on the day. Get this if you only intend to do a few days. You can upgrade at any time to a full membership

CAMS L2NS licence: $48 Available on the day. Payable on the day.

NOTE: The CAMS licence is a once-yearly payment. After applying for one, you will eventually receive a licence in the mail that can be used at all of our events for one year. If you signed up for one last time and have not yet received it, please bring the tear-off bit you received.

Here's how to work out how much it costs for you:

If you've never drifted before, for entry and a day licence, it's $135

If you're an Initial Drift member with a CAMS licence, it's $90

If you're not an Initial Drift member, but have a CAMS licence, it's $110

If you're an Initial Drift Associate Member with a CAMS licence, it's $110

If you want to join with a yearly Associate Membership and CAMS licence it's $110 + $50 +$48 = $208

If you want to join with a yearly Full Membership and CAMS licence, it's $90 + $170 +$48 = $308

TIMES:

SIGN ON: 8:00AM - 9:15AM

SCRUTINEERING: 8:00AM - 9:15AM

COMPULSORY DRIVER BRIEFING: 9:15AM - 9:30AM

TRACK ACTIVITY: 9:30AM - 4:30PM

LUNCH BREAK: 12:30PM - 1:00PM

HOW TO ENTER:

  • Download the ENTRY FORM <-- Click Link To Open. (Not working? Download the latest Adobe Reader HERE)
  • Read it and fill it out.
  • Scroll down to the bottom and click the button to email the form to us.
  • Deposit your money into the bank account on the entry form (by direct deposit either on the internet or at your bank), and make sure you put the remitter name as your name, and put SKIDPAN or something similar as the description. This will secure your spot. All you have to do then is turn up.

PRE-ENTRIES WILL NOT BE ACCEPTED AFTER THURSDAY THE 2ND EVENING, AS THE PAYMENT SOMETIMES NEEDS 48 HOURS TO CLEAR BEFORE YOU SECURE A PLACE.

Entries can be made on the morning, but prepayments are preferred.

- Alexi, Pete & James

Bakadesu!!! Apprentice

Bakadesu!!!

Posted
  • Author
Posted
how often do you do these particular days, just don't think i'll have a 2way in by next weekend

Our next skidpan day is not until the 7th of October, but it will be pretty much the same format as the one we're running next weekend.

Anyone is welcome to come out and spectate as well!

All of the other InitialDrift track dates for the rest of the year can be found HERE.

 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...