Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK I have had my GTR for 3-4 months now. It has a Nismo twin in it with low kms on it aprox 10-15k and well it slipping bad. Where do I go from here. New plates and put back together or OS Giken? Need some advice please. Car sees 70% street 30% Drag. It runs a 1.6 60' and a 12.6 1/4 at 109mph. I am under no disalusions I do use my car hard at the track. 7000rpm launch frequently on a prepped track.

All coments and recomondations welcome THanks

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178419-nismo-85-twin-plate/
Share on other sites

yeah if its not the rattely clutch it wares out quick.

r3c is my recomendation. pretty cheap atm.

the nismo replacment plates are around 400 each. but it will need to be all machined etc etc or it will ware out twice as fast.

i used to have one too. gmax2 thats why its sitting in my garage rusting cos its too fragile and costly to repare.

What is the drivability like with a triple plate? I have been looking at THe OS Giken and the Exedy. I drive the car on the street lots. And go on cruises with some Viper budies once amonth. I 1/4 mile it 3-4 times a year.

id say that the exedy is a good clutch to go with, i have the triplle plate from them, can be grabby but you get used to it. just be carefull that you dont send your gearbox to hell with those power launches, been there done that

seriously. i put a r3c in my car. and omg it is a easy clutch to drive on. very much like the street spec nismo twin. not far from standard.

seriously im so supprised how easy it is. and thats with the normal slave cyl.

my nismo tripple gmax spec3 was an absolute brutal clutch to drive. imposible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...