Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tonight while driving around the gold coast my auto gearbox wouldnt change out of 1st gear and just seemed to rev up to redline.Gearbox was fine only seemed to start playing up after leaving my house,as usual i parked my car in my driveway which is a 30 degrees incline

1 out of every 5 times it would change out of 1st into 2nd

i am now driving in snow atm due to this problem

i have a seperate transmission cooler up front but not the stock radiator one, as my radiator started to leak and had to replace with a manual radiator.

i only flushed out the tranny fluid 200kms ago and i did this as the oil was black and would change gears at 6000 revs. after changing the fluid and cleaning the tranny filter it seemed to change gears at 3000-4000 revs.

ive noticed some oil at the bottom of the radiator, could be transmission fluid leaking from the cooler, would this affect gear changes in 1st?

thinking of getting the gearbox checked out, how much would it cost roughly to get checked out?

any reccomendations on reputable transmission places on gold coast?

sorry for the long post, i just want my car to get all better lol,

p.s if anyone has any ideas on whats wrong/advice with the gearbox or if youve had ur own experience please post

thankyou guys i appreciate your help

Edited by adoboy666
Tonight while driving around the gold coast my auto gearbox wouldnt change out of 1st gear and just seemed to rev up to redline.Gearbox was fine only seemed to start playing up after leaving my house,as usual i parked my car in my driveway which is a 30 degrees incline

1 out of every 5 times it would change out of 1st into 2nd

i am now driving in snow atm due to this problem

i have a seperate transmission cooler up front but not the stock radiator one, as my radiator started to leak and had to replace with a manual radiator.

i only flushed out the tranny fluid 200kms ago and i did this as the oil was black and would change gears at 6000 revs. after changing the fluid and cleaning the tranny filter it seemed to change gears at 3000-4000 revs.

ive noticed some oil at the bottom of the radiator, could be transmission fluid leaking from the cooler, would this affect gear changes in 1st?

thinking of getting the gearbox checked out, how much would it cost roughly to get checked out?

any reccomendations on reputable transmission places on gold coast?

sorry for the long post, i just want my car to get all better lol,

p.s if anyone has any ideas on whats wrong/advice with the gearbox or if youve had ur own experience please post

thankyou guys i appreciate your help

Haha "driving in snow" on the gold coast.

If you find the box is dead I have one left over from a half cut.

your gearbox is f**ked. having only the one external cooler has probably cooked it. when you stick another auto in it or get yours rebuilt find an automatic radiator stick it in an hook up your external cooler aswell to stop this happening again

after a night the car in the garage ive checked the transission fluid to find it below low.

when i checked the fluid level last night it was above high but this could be due to the oil sloshing around up the filler tube and making a false reading.

atm im taking the radiator out so i can get to the seperate tranny oil cooler and check where its leaking from. hopefully once the leak is fixed and once topped up with oil it will work again.

as soon as this is done i will take it to get the gearbox serviced and checked out.

anyone have any good reccomendations on transmission places to get a service located on the gold coast that know skyline gearboxs well?

thanks again

after driving around for a week, it doesnt seem as bad as it is.

after i rev up and back off in 1st gear it changes now, and it only happens like once or twice when i go for a 15min drive around the gold coast.

The oil was black when i got the car and changed it immediately, hopefully the gearbox will last till i get the $ for a manual conversion.

anyone know roughly how much a manual gearbox with conversion parts costs?

does anyone have a manual gearbox for sale?

thanx again

my brother looked at my car this weekend and discovered that my r32 gts25 was originally manual not automatic.

we confirmed this after seeing a plate with bolts covering where the clutch master goes through the firewall, and looking at the auto brake pedal assembly and discovering yellow/whit paint mark on it, meaning it was bought from the wreckers

my brother also said there should be another cable going to the throttle body other then the accelerator cable. he said it was a "kickback cable" or something like that.

1)if possible can someone take a pic of their automatic auto throttle body to show me the 2nd cable or confirm me on this?

2) ive tried the gearbox diagnostics but havent got it to work any tips?

3) my brother told me i probably still have the manual ecu still in it would this prevent the auto diagnostic from working?

thanks again

p.s- do you know anything else that i could ckeck eg electrics to confirm that the auto gearbox was installed properly and that it has all the essential parts

auto skylines have the plate on the firewall blanking off the master cyln location for manual cars, as for the whirte/yellow paint or whatever this doesnt mean much as a lot of this sort of gear is marked off on the production line...

so the replacement engine in my r32 gtst rb20 must be out of an auto?? cause i have a throttle body with a place where i can put 2 cables if i need to but it only has one lol. i always wanted to know what that was for

so the replacement engine in my r32 gtst rb20 must be out of an auto?? cause i have a throttle body with a place where i can put 2 cables if i need to but it only has one lol. i always wanted to know what that was for

could be, but their is a possibility that nissan made the throttle bodies the same as to save on costs of changing the design and making seperate throttle bodies for auto and manual.

So can anyone get a pic of their auto throttle body or confirm that a second cable is attached to it??

thanks

so the replacement engine in my r32 gtst rb20 must be out of an auto?? cause i have a throttle body with a place where i can put 2 cables if i need to but it only has one lol. i always wanted to know what that was for

thats for cruise control...

Skyline autos are electronically controlled, gone are the days of cable operated kick downs ;)

thats for cruise control...

Skyline autos are electronically controlled, gone are the days of cable operated kick downs :thumbsup:

oh true

my sisters boyfriend yesterday told me that when he had an auto car it did the same thing once he backed off it would change.he explained that the oil pickup line was clogged!!

when i changed my gearbox oil 2 months ago it had grey sludge at the bottom kind of like lard, but i didnt fully flush the gearbox properly.

anyone had the same thing???

will take my car in to a transmission specialist on the weekend

if the oil pick up line which is a filter is blocked the gearbox has worn out something and is buggered. grey sludge doesnt show any good signs either. are the transmission shops over there open on weekends are they?

your gearbox is f**ked. having only the one external cooler has probably cooked it. when you stick another auto in it or get yours rebuilt find an automatic radiator stick it in an hook up your external cooler aswell to stop this happening again

Mate i don't seriously think that would be the main cause. I have only a B&M cooler(not a very big one) in my trimatic and with even a 3500 stall converter and driving to work with only second and third gears (first is stuffed) which places massive strains on the converter and oil, my temp only reaches 90degC. Though i have a auto temp gauge so i know.

I did away with the oil running through the radiator, though prob not so good down here in syd during winter.

They don't have cable kick down's anymore, like someone else said. He's prob from the ol' school holden era. The kick down is controlled via the TPS. There is 2 parts to the TPS, one for the engine, a rheostat(variable resistor), and idle and fullthrottle switches for the auto.

Mate it sounds like one or some of the solenoids are stuffed internal in the box. Worst part about these boxes.... They cost a fair bit to fix.

You probably have torched the box in the past and by the sounds of it done some pretty serious damage internal with all the black oil and sludge type stuff. It can come from many places inc the converter as there are plain type bearings in there and the lockup pads.

Mate just get another box, they are pretty cheap. Or get a fully built box.

Thanx man

got my car checked out on monday,everythings working fine electronically, we found the cause to be one of the clutch bands is wearing out.Got quoted $3000 to get fixed including parts and labour.

The owner told me the gearbox will fully wear out soon as the wearng of the band creates debri which can wear out a drum at the back of the gearbox, so atm im saving for a manual gearbox and

parts i have $650 atm.

ive located a manual gearbox for $650 anyone have a rough guide on how much the other parts for the conversion will cost??

me and my brother can do the conversion ourselves, my brothers converted an auto 180sx to manual.

p.s if the auto gearbox completely dies before i get the money for the manual conversion i will buy a second hand automatic box.

dj labby, you obviously dont drive your car hard enough to get it hot. having a pissy little transmission cooler on the front of your car for day to day driving does no good watsoever. driving around with only second an third isnt good either which also tells me you dont really care which is why you only have a not very big cooler

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...