Jump to content
SAU Community

Safc Tune

tyaos

By tyaos,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tyaos Proficient

tyaos

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Lol guess what guys.. The other performance shop quote me 600 to 800!! WTF? Extra WTF! Can't remember the name of them but its completely ripping off guys! Anyway i have to get someone elses to install and tune around 200. Anyone know any good place to do? In sydney area thanks! Cheers paul

Edited by tyaos
turbs33 Community Regular

turbs33

Posted
Posted

I have R33 safc 1 blue screen, fmic 3 inch exhaust 12.5 psi on std turbo. I have removed 1% fuel in high throtle map (50% thottle or more) from 3000rpm to redline with no adverse effects. Obviously will get a tune done one day but i am pretty comfortable that all is ok atm.

Can anyone else with a tuned safc confrim that no richening of ur a/f's was needed on boost from 3000rpm to redline..

This has helped me with rich and retard issues too as before i did this i could only run like 10 psi before r&r became an issue.

Deffinately no audible ping, car feels like it pulls fine to redline in all gears.

Finny Community Regular

Finny

Posted
Posted (edited)

I dare say install it your self or if you dont know what a soldering iron is ask a mate who does. Then get it tuned, it doesn't take long at all and I have seen good results.

My mate paid $100 for his R34 GTT to be tuned with SAFC and thats in Tasmania FFS where everthing is 100x more expensive when it comes to tuning.

He had stock every thing exept full 3" exhaust and dump.

He went from 158RWKW to 171RWKW!

Well worth the $100.

Also the guy who said 1% less on all rev range.. thats not gonna make any difference really. you would be going from say 12.8:1 to 12.7:1 Air fuel mixture.

When I get off my arse and wire my SAFC2 in I will be making up a basic tune before I get to dyno because I have a lot of experience with SAFCs and I know my car is getting too rich in top end from 6000-7000rpm so I will lean it a tad there and lean it a little before boost to help spool. But this will only be temp for about a week till I get into dyno.

Edited by Finny
R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted

Its pretty easy to install. The instructions tells you exactly what to do. The only bad thing is the position you have to do it in. Just put a couple of towels on the grond so your knees dont get sore..lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Duncan · Posted

      Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...