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do you guys have any light dimming problem while you playing music so loud?

for my car... when subs are playing... my head lights and all lights in my car are dimming so baddly...lol

it looks so crazy....-.,-;

i changed my battery from 250cc to 660cc..

what should i do~~~~~~~~~~~>O<

grounding kit and a better battery... The only time i saw dimming was during testing with my new amps and subs... with the car off...

a cap is the last thing you should need...

660cc should definitely be enough, weird

what size are you amps?

they shouldn't be pulling that much power down, hope your alternator isn't on the way out?

see if you can borrow a 1.0 or 1.5 farad capacitor of a mate or someone to test it out, that could fix it, also check all your grounds, what size cable/fuse are you using from the battery?

hey,

ok first thing you should do is forget about the cap.they are purely a bandaid fix or as i like to call them car audio jewlery.they look nice but dont really do much.if any one would like to dispute this fact i shal provide the tests that were conducted to prove it :sorcerer: .i would highly recoment upgrading the factory earths.what amps and subs do you have mate?if you have a multimeter have the car runing and set the multimeter to 200 on the V side of things and put the probes on the battery.post up the voltage that it displays too.

your lights are dimming due to voltage drop and going by what you have told us already id say your still using the stock ground which 95 % of times will be the cause. >_<

Jack

Ive never used a cap so cant advise you there

I would get better guage cable to the amp and to the ground. I had the same problem.

If caps really are no good, put another battery in the boot. Would be cheaper too.

Or just think.. do you really need 2 x 12" subs.

hey,

ok first thing you should do is forget about the cap.they are purely a bandaid fix or as i like to call them car audio jewlery.they look nice but dont really do much.if any one would like to dispute this fact i shal provide the tests that were conducted to prove it :sorcerer: .i would highly recoment upgrading the factory earths.what amps and subs do you have mate?if you have a multimeter have the car runing and set the multimeter to 200 on the V side of things and put the probes on the battery.post up the voltage that it displays too.

your lights are dimming due to voltage drop and going by what you have told us already id say your still using the stock ground which 95 % of times will be the cause. >_<

Jack

hi jack

i have rockford forsgate p4004 1000watt 4ch amp and 1 12 inch rockford punch series 1 sub (took out one subs out from my boot to use some more space).

whats multimeter? dont actually understand the part "if you have a multimeter have the car runing and set the multimeter to 200 on the V side of things and put the probes on the battery" (im really noob in auto..)

and for the earth... which one should i buy?

cheers

Ive never used a cap so cant advise you there

I would get better guage cable to the amp and to the ground. I had the same problem.

If caps really are no good, put another battery in the boot. Would be cheaper too.

Or just think.. do you really need 2 x 12" subs.

lol no i dont need 2x12.. so i took out one subs today..

thx man

You have a 1000w Amp!

Well then yeh.. that bastards going to need a lot of power. Big thick cables running to it. Capacitors would be essential or the extra battery in the boot suggestion.

Caps are NOT needed.

A cap is really only good for one or two notes, after that, they're out of power, and then they're attempting to draw power to charge up. They're only really useful in a one note burst. Full song, no way.

Basically it needs a better wiring kit, and a good alternator.And according to Rockford Fosgate, that is only a 400Watt RMS amp.

hey,

ok first thing you should do is forget about the cap.they are purely a bandaid fix or as i like to call them car audio jewlery.they look nice but dont really do much.if any one would like to dispute this fact i shal provide the tests that were conducted to prove it :sorcerer: .i would highly recoment upgrading the factory earths.what amps and subs do you have mate?if you have a multimeter have the car runing and set the multimeter to 200 on the V side of things and put the probes on the battery.post up the voltage that it displays too.

your lights are dimming due to voltage drop and going by what you have told us already id say your still using the stock ground which 95 % of times will be the cause. :(

Jack

hey mate,

just got a quick question

you say the stock ground is insufficient. is it becos the gauge of the earth wire is insufficient?

so should pplz running big amps run bigger gauge earth wires and or should they find a different ground? where would you suggest i re ground?

sorry for the noob questions

hopefully you can help!

cheers in advance

kind regards, :(

hey bro i had this setup in my R34 b4 i sold it and it had major dimming issues when i pumped it...... i had a 1500watt monoblock amp with 2 gauge wires running the two 1000 watt max (500 watts rms) clarion PXW1252/1 12 in subs and a 3 farad aerpro capacitor and it really was a bandaid fix the cap didnt do anything except f**k my battery up becuz when the charge drained from the capacitor the battery was trying too hard to charge itself and keep the car running so what u need to do is go get ur hands on a big CC long amp hours dry cell battery.... preferably an optima yellow top or a big odyssey dry cell they r expensive but they r well worth the money the keep the car running perfectly and u can leave the stereo running with the car being turned on without it goin dead..... and the dimmin issue goes straight out the window once u put in a big dry cell cuz it has more cca and longer amp hourage therefore more power then the stereo is draining..... what setup do u have in ur boot??

post-36124-1186097246_thumb.jpg

post-36124-1186097419_thumb.jpg

Edited by punisher6942

may be the battery... mine is liquid...

thats why... i should've change to dry cell if i knew before... i changed last week...

anyway... i was have 2x12 subs and as MBS 206 said i have rockford P4004 400Watt RMS amp

but i took out one subs and now i have one 12.

now... my sound system has gone dumb... if i pump this up a bit... the subs cant support sounds...

cant explain what the sounds like but i cant stand on with this sounds.. you know the proper subs sound very deep and vibrates your heart

but now mine.. it does give you some vibrate and it sounds like rattling very baddly but its not rattling car.. the subs arent supporting properly..

someone said its because my subs can support the power of amp.. when i have 2 subs, the power was perfectly supported.. after i took one out, the power from amp is going to one subs and the subs cannot handle the power..

anybody have solution??????

cant pump it up.... so sad...

hi jack

i have rockford forsgate p4004 1000watt 4ch amp and 1 12 inch rockford punch series 1 sub (took out one subs out from my boot to use some more space).

whats multimeter? dont actually understand the part "if you have a multimeter have the car runing and set the multimeter to 200 on the V side of things and put the probes on the battery" (im really noob in auto..)

and for the earth... which one should i buy?

cheers

hey mate,

this is a multimeter.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=546

with that amp you shouldn't really be runing into too much problems.

what i ment when i said put the multimeter on 200 on hte V side of things.200 is just the range that the multimeter is going to display on the screen. so it would display something like 12.8v.the V stands for volts. when you test a battery with a multimeter the multimeter tells you how many volts the battery is so lets say you tested yours and it said 12.8v.now start the car and do the same thing again,put the probes onto the battery terminals and see what the multimeter says,it should read between 13.5 - 14.4 volts. a really good condition alternator will charge at around 14.4 volts which is excelent.an alternator thats in bad shape would probly charge at 13 volts or something.

ok the earth(s) you need to upgrade will be the one(s) going from the negative battery post to the chassis of the car and the one that goes from the same place to the engine block.your car may have both or more.im not sure where the battery is in a R34 but in the R33's its in the boot so there will only be 1 main earth going from the negative battery post to the chassis right under the battery.

R33LIN,

in your boot remove the trim thing that sits in front of the battery.the ground im talking about upgrading is the one thats black with a yellow stripe that goes from the negative battery terminal to the body of the car right under the battery.the cable is about 40cm long if that.

and yes its because the stock ground is too small.the stock ground was only ever intended to be enough to run the car and electricals,when you start adding amplifiers and things to the electrical system the stock earth will struggle to pass the amount of current needed to run the car + the extra amps uv just added to it.say the stock earth is 6 gauge and youv just installed a amp that requires a 2 gague power and earth wire,the 6 gauge earth is just simply too small.and yes i would recomend people that are runing large amps or a few small ones to upgrade the earths but i say if there isn't any diming of lights or any thing then leave it.it wont hurt to upgrade them but if things are fine the way they are there really isn't much point.and i would just replace the length of factory earth to a larger gauge. say 0 or 2 gauge if you runing large gear..that should keep things safe without any probs.

punisher6942,

ahh someone that has experienced the uslesness of caps first hand :) .yes the optimas and so on are great batterys.as stated they gernerally have a larger CCA,RC and AH rating than the equalavent sized lead acid battery.a great advantage of the dry cell or "deep cycle" batterys is that they can be run flat and charged back up again with out causing any damage to them.

tyaos,

were the subs in the same box?if yes does the box have a divider down the middle so each sub has its own little enclosure inside the one box?your amp isn't like a light switch,when its turned on it doesn't make all its power like that.think of it like a dimmer switch....the more you turn it up the brighter the light gets.your amp works the same way,the more you turn the volume up on your head unit the more power the amp makes.all i can think of why it sounds really bad now that youv taken one sub out is that the sub might now be out of phase with the rest of the system,the crossovers on your amp might not be set properly,or as i asked before when you took the one sub out the one left in the box might now be in a box waay to big for it,and or theres a massive air leak where you took the other sub out.

enough from me for one post i think :)

Jack

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