Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I need some help with a quote I got....

Have a read and let me know what u think.

Also if anyone knows a good workshop who i can speak to to get another quote...

What I wrote to workshop...

Hi,

I Pm'd u a month or so ago regarding some work that i wanted to get done.

I have since got a oil cooler and filter relocator. I have also go an adjustable exhaust cam gear. I am looking to getting both fitted and the cam gear tuned.

I have a 96 r33 S2 and would like a timing belt change as well

Can you give me a quote for the work mentioned above? I am also a member of SAU NSW.

Looking forward to hearing from you soon.

Thanks!!

The reply...

Timing belt $90 recommend idler and tension bearing change and we use GTR idler which is slightly stronger and $220 for the pair, optional 76.5 C opening thermostat $36 waterpump $130 and premix Elf Coolant $6 a litre adn about 7 litres, workshopsupplies solvent, sealant enviro levy etc $15 labour 98 an hour and about 4 hours and if dont have get adj exhaust cam gear which often makes 10rwkw plus and $150 to checkand set on dyno. Can do late next week or later.

Thanks!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178826-quote-help/
Share on other sites

hey brendan

saw you at casula shops not long ago but didnt say hi

anyway, give brad a pm, and fit the oil cooler yourself. its the same as changing the filter but you have to mount it somewhere. mine is in front of the drivers wheel. pm me if you want an exhaust cam gear, i have an aerospeed one for cheap if your interested. its not like im far away either.

cya

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178826-quote-help/#findComment-3267608
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
×
×
  • Create New...