Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I tried to polish car before.....

There is now many swirl mark on my car. My car is dark blue colour.

I have used Mequires step 1 paint cleaner, using random oribital buffer with soft foam pad.

I still can see alot of swirls after that,

then i use Ultra Gloss paint cleaner....

Then i use UltraGloss DGS wax......

1. what to use to polish out swirls?

2. do i have to use by hand to polish all the way through??

3. Is the mechine buffer make the swirl?

4. what to use to make the car showroom shine? I've try Mequires Deep crystral polish, Mequires Deep crystal canubra wax, Facerla top performance wax?

5. What is clay do?? help shiny?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179143-polish-out-swirl/
Share on other sites

may help to let us know what steps you use to polish you car.

clay is used b4 polish after washing.

what i do is:

wash

clay

wash

meguires scratchx if needed

mother's paint cleaner

remove when dry with soft cloth

meguires deep crystal polish by random orbital sander with a lambswool pad

let dry properly and remove with microfibre cloths

meguires gold class liquid wax by hand using one of their applicator pads

gentle buff off with fresh microfibre cloths. always using clean ones

Similar to what Basti said, but in the past I have;

-Washed the car, not with the brush at the car wash but with a sponge (car wash brush creates the swirls in the paint!)

-Chamois the car until its dry

-Use Meguiars Scratch X (apply lightly with an applicator, wait a few minutes, then buff off)

-Use a microfiber cloth to remove any hardened/removed residue of polish

-Apply some Meguiars Gold Class polish (apply lightly with an applicator, wait a few minutes, then buff off)

-Use a microfiber cloth to remove any hardened/removed residue of polish

And it should be looking pretty damn shiny about now!

Meguiars polish is definitely worth every cent, if you go into Autobarn you can grab a different combination of sets available will applicators and a lint free cloth as well.

Highly recommended, used it in the past, and was recommended by a friend, and I wouldn't use anything else. Really really good results.

Thanks,

Abu

my mates mate is a auto detailer, after polishing (final step) wash the car again and chamoise dry... removes swirls. probably also depends on what brand you use too... merguires and mothers from what i have experienced are good brands

Wash it again after hey, never tried that! Although when I do rinse of the car later when it gets a little dusty, and chamois it again it does come up pretty mint.

Will have to give it a a go! :sleep:

Thanks,

Abu

When i buffed my car i used Farecla G3 cutting compound

Followed by 3M Perfect-it II foam pad polishing glaze- This removes the swirls left by the cutter and cleans the panels.

Then follow with a normal hand polish.

There is another 3m product that is good for removing 'hologram' marks that is sometimes noticable on dark coloured cars.

Can't remember the name of it off the top of my head but if you take your time and buff your car properly you wont need to use it ! :nyaanyaa:

Hope this helps

Rich

When i buffed my car i used Farecla G3 cutting compound

Followed by 3M Perfect-it II foam pad polishing glaze- This removes the swirls left by the cutter and cleans the panels.

Then follow with a normal hand polish.

There is another 3m product that is good for removing 'hologram' marks that is sometimes noticable on dark coloured cars.

Can't remember the name of it off the top of my head but if you take your time and buff your car properly you wont need to use it ! :nyaanyaa:

Hope this helps

Rich

Same here but I only use G3 to remove large scratches, then go over with G4 and the Farecla fine white foam, and finish with Swissvax Onyx wax, I've use Farecla compounds for the 18 years I've worked in the Car repair trade, and still recommend them.

Pic of the last time I buffed and waxed my car (which is dark blue pearl)..

waxzy7.jpg

Same here but I only use G3 to remove large scratches, then go over with G4 and the Farecla fine white foam, and finish with Swissvax Onyx wax, I've use Farecla compounds for the 18 years I've worked in the Car repair trade, and still recommend them.

Pic of the last time I buffed and waxed my car (which is dark blue pearl)..

waxzy7.jpg

So, do you recommand Farecla top performance wax?? Are they better than Merguires?

But there are alot of people happy with the jobs with Merguires........

AND, do i always have to use hand polish???

So, do you recommand Farecla top performance wax?? Are they better than Merguires?

But there are alot of people happy with the jobs with Merguires........

AND, do i always have to use hand polish???

If you meen there Gold top machine polish? then its ok, dont last long though, There black top hand glaze is good for cleaning off water marks etc but again dont last long, there Topwax is ok to but only lasts 3 months and does not give a good a shine as most wax's, I use the Swissvax wax as its really good top quality stuff that lasts for ages :nyaanyaa:

Edited by DriftyR33

There is a stickied thread at the top of the cosmetics section that discusses detailing Click Here.. many opinions so you will have to decide which advice to take on board.

A few points..

There is no point letting a cutting compound dry.. it is not there as a coating so buff it off with a microfibre towel when you're done with that section of the paint. The longer it sits there the harder it will be to take off.

Once you have your cars paint swirl free it is the washing of the car where you will produce the most scratches after that. I don't wash my car with a sponge anymore I use a Microfibre Wash Mitt, some use lambs woll mitts. I wash all of my Microfibre towels and wash mitt after washing the car in the washing machine with a small amount of laundry liquid (DON'T add fabric softner). You can't clean the dirt out of a sponge so it will stay trapped in it and scratch the car next time you wash it.

Here is a link that goes through how to wash a car to try and prevent swirls. I know it sounds a bit silly to watch a guy wash a car but the guy is Mike Philips, who is Administrator for Meguiarsonline and runs meguiars how-to classes (he knows what he's talking about). Every little bit of info helps in my opinion so have a look.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=75...owcargarage.com

This is my opinion and I know other people will have theirs so don't flame me if you disagree, give me an explaination as to why you do and I'll definitely take it on board.

Edited by Fry_33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...