Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people

Cant find out what globe type this is?

See the pic

Some people say its h3, h3c, h1, h1 with a h4 connector.. Ive had mix answers.

My car is a 1992 R32 (HCR32) Type-M RB20DET 5spd manual. The headlights are the new projector shape ones, not the old n1 (89) ones.

Could someone please clarify this once and for all, as im trying to purchase HID kit and have no clue which path to go down.

52n3kg7.jpg

68kmjo6.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179309-what-globe-type-is-this/
Share on other sites

the base of the globe? where the 3 pins are at the bottom? cause there is nothing there. i don't see any print at all anywhere.

does the actual globe come off the adapter part? because I have to replace this part, my light doesn't work the filament is loose inside and busted, ..

so when you buy it do you buy the actual whole piece I posted the picture of? or do you just buy the globe to suit it and replace it (if it comes apart?)

well I need to replace this globe tomorrow. and my H1 HID kit arrives next week

so would there need to be any modification to the H1 HID kit or will it be pretty straight forward to install, plug n play?...

sounds like there could be some difficulties as you said 'h1 bulb in a holder'.?

I have to agree with MANWHORE. I've purchased a set of hids and the visibility is much better than what my original headlights were doing, but there is a lot of glare compared to what retrofits can do. If your set is already on its way, I just hope you chose 4300k globes to come with it. I found that 6000k was too blue and ricey. Only my opinion.

I wouldn't say they're a complete waste of money though. The kit did what it was supposed to do (give a better light output), but it's not good for on coming drivers.

Up to you mate.

Thanks for the info

I am still considering whether to get 4300K or 6000K, but 4300K may be the way to go

At the moment my halogen stock bulbs are so crap that oncoming cars to me, I can barely see the road.. it feels like my lights arn't even on half the time.

Would the H1 HID kit fit, or would it need some sort of modifications?

I know what you mean mate. I remember driving my car with the standard lights and it was shocking. Couldn't see a thing. Driving at night while it's raining was the worst.

The kit I had was pretty much plug and play.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi people, i also own a R32 Gtst and was looking into getting a hid kit. just wondering that one of you guys quoted that the 6000k was blurry but wouldnt the 4300k be to bright for oncoming car? also would the 4300k look just white? cause i want the blue tinge so what kit should i get?

Go for a custom HID fit, Ronin here has done one

I fully agree with everythin MANWHORE says

I'm doing one at the moment, using twin FX45 bi-xenons, I'm just trying to work out fitment issues and a shroud

Then trying to make a clear headlight cover out of perspex, because my current one is the glass crapper with the lines through it

Do a search on "HID conversion" on the search button you'll find it.

If you do go for the HID kit, you'll notice how crap it is, especially in the factory nissan projector lense, it'll focus the light all in one spot and scatter the rest

Hi people, i also own a R32 Gtst and was looking into getting a hid kit. just wondering that one of you guys quoted that the 6000k was blurry but wouldnt the 4300k be to bright for oncoming car? also would the 4300k look just white? cause i want the blue tinge so what kit should i get?

All the hid kits are the same. They'll all give 'blurry' light. The 6000K globes are more of a blue light and the 4300K is supposed to be the colour of sun light. If I were to get an hid kit again, I would go for the 4300k. I wanted a blue to my light, but I found 6000K too much.

If I were to upgrade to better lights in the future, I would definately go retrofitting. I kind of regret buying my hid kit. It's an improvement, but.... it's up to you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...