Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys problem with a mates 32 gtst changed the pads and disks bled the breakes yet there still isnt any pressure on the pedal goes all the way to the floor? any ideas? do these have problems with mater cyclinders? brake boosters? any help would be good

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179572-no-r32-brake-pedal-pressure/
Share on other sites

Yes, they're not bled properly. Don't know how the lines run. It's possible to trap air in a low section of line, and not have enough fluid displacement with a pedal stroke to displace the air ( it just rolls back to the low point ). This can be a bit time consuming, but often works. Jack up one wheel, as high as possible, and bleed that wheel. Let it down, jack up next one, etc. Otherwise need to have it 'pressure bled.'

Yeah it sounds like air in the lines

Unless you didn't remove the lines to do it?

Usually when isntalling the pads I undo the bleeder to push the caliper in, that way it doesn't force fluid back into the master

If you removed the hoses, then yeah, air in the lines

Had a bit of an experience yesterday, I forgot about mine, brakes were working fine on my drive, started driving it to my new house,

got on a very steep hill, no pedal :S straight to the floor :S

Ended up using the handbrake to stop, took about 10 meters though :S luckily no one was around to laugh at me

I thought not having working brakes a scary experience. I'm still on my L's and I recently had a leaking master and abs system. I was driving and it got to a stage where I had to use my engine to do all the braking. Scary experience, but it showed me how to control the car if someone cut the brakes in a way I guess. Stupid I know, but I kept driving the car like this for awhile (2 weeks).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...