Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

Just picked up my R32 today, more than happy with it.. but the heating doesn't work, and it is winter at the moment!..

The fan and all the different modes work, like feet, face, and fan speed, 1,2,3,4 etc

A/C works and all that other stuff, but no heat, it just blows cold air.

Any ideas what it would be, I got no idea and don't know where to start looking.

Any help would be appreciated. >_<

Thanks in advance,

Abu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179816-r32-heating-not-working/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, I recently had the same problems your getting. First of all, try holding down the heat button for about 10sec or until an sign 'FH' appears on the screen. It should overide all the sensors and push out as much hot air as it can. Make sure the engine is warm too. :) Give that a try and if it still doesn't work then I think it could be something to do with the motor which controls your hot/cold air.

Let me know.

Hey mate, I recently had the same problems your getting. First of all, try holding down the heat button for about 10sec or until an sign 'FH' appears on the screen. It should overide all the sensors and push out as much hot air as it can. Make sure the engine is warm too. :laugh: Give that a try and if it still doesn't work then I think it could be something to do with the motor which controls your hot/cold air.

Let me know.

Hey man

Thanks for the info.

When I held down the heat button the FH symbol did come up but not hot air came through the vents, stillt he same cold air.

Car was warm, and I left it on for a while in FH mode, but still didnt work..

Will look into it further on the weekend when I get some more time.

Any one have any more information or past experiences with this?

Thanks,

Abu

Sounds like you have the same problem I had. Try doing the diagnosis to see if there are any other problems. Shouldn't take long and it'll show you what's wrong. If not, it SHOULD be the problem I was having.

Edited by adam-__-

As Adam said, it sounds like the motor controlling the door which controls the blend of hot and cold air. i was having the same issue, so i pulled the dash out and made the easy diagnosis. I Replaced the motor with a second hand one and now i dont freeze on the way to work in the morning. Feel free to pm me if you need a hand.

Thanks heaps Adam, I will read through that thread and see if I can work it out. Hope its nothing major, i really like the heater lol

Especially at this time of the year!

As Adam said, it sounds like the motor controlling the door which controls the blend of hot and cold air. i was having the same issue, so i pulled the dash out and made the easy diagnosis. I Replaced the motor with a second hand one and now i dont freeze on the way to work in the morning. Feel free to pm me if you need a hand.

Damn dash out!! Stuff that, I hope its not that serious.

I will see how I go with the diagnosis and then go from there. Thanks for the offer of PMing you if I have any issues, will definitely take you up on that!

Thanks,

Abu

I think you can replace the door motor but just removing the centre consol section where the stereo is, but if it ends up that the motor isnt the issue you will probably have to take the dash out anyway to work out where the issue is. The dash out job is pretty easy anyway once you have done it before.

Are you sure you have to take the dash out to replace the motor though? I remember when I was stuffing around with the motor to try and get it fixed, it didn't seem to hard for it to get out from where the passanger's feet go.

How long did it take you to remove the dash R324DR? I hear it's about 6 hours!

Go on to Page 3 of this "General Maintenance" subject, and there's the same subject ( about 20 posts, I think)... May help, and shortcut doing it all again. Have you tested it after a reasonable distance. Takes a while for hot warer to circulate thru heater radiator.

Go on to Page 3 of this "General Maintenance" subject, and there's the same subject ( about 20 posts, I think)... May help, and shortcut doing it all again. Have you tested it after a reasonable distance. Takes a while for hot warer to circulate thru heater radiator.

Hey

Thanks for that, will check that thread now.

Yep, done it over a fair distance, tried it over 30kms of driving lol

Thanks,

Abu

Are you sure you have to take the dash out to replace the motor though? I remember when I was stuffing around with the motor to try and get it fixed, it didn't seem to hard for it to get out from where the passanger's feet go.

How long did it take you to remove the dash R324DR? I hear it's about 6 hours!

like is said, i think you can replace the blend motor by just taking out the centre consol part (sterio, ash tray, climate control unit, gauges (if GTR), plus side sections). If your in a hurry the dash should only take about half an hour to an hour to take out. Will take longer if you have no experience with removing car interiours, but no where near 6 hours.

make sure the heater isnt bypassed in the engine bay, this can be done when the heater core starts leaking.

Thanks man. Checked that one already :D

Will bleed the cooling system as well, might be an airlock in there causing the heating not to work.

Got some free time today so will run the climate control in that diagnostic mode and see what it brings up in the error table!

Thanks,

Abu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...