Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And you'll always just be another loser.

You know you're an e-loser.

You've got numerous threads in PF showing just how much of a loser you are.

Just a matter of time before the real world catches up.

Get started on that pink interior. I can't wait to write about it.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest INASNT

poyz

just remember u will always be my hero!

and if u think your car is something so powerful, its not, these are the types of powerful machines i work with every day designing and engineering and get payed a packet to do it 2!!, not that i need to prove anything to u!

attachment.php?s=&postid=320525

yes thats right 12,500 BHP at 600rpm

attachment.php?s=&postid=320527

attachment.php?s=&postid=320529

i can show u stuff about mechanics u didnt even know existed!

so dont think u have anything over me u DONT i can run many a circle around u if i wanted 2!

Thats all i have to say about that!

now back on topic!

I got the circuit diagram for a R32 sumwhere in my mass of rubbish... I'll get Dr Drift to wire mine up when I see him next.

Only problem, it relies on the lock of the drivers side door to activate it. It involves putting a resistor between the lock power switch and the side mirror switch. And a couple of other things.

lock the doors and the mirror goes in, unlock the door and the mirrors pop out. Its not that hard according tot he system and it will work with any alarm that locks doors.

Only problem the designer (some Jap R32 owner) stated was if you lock the doorswhile driving then the mirrors fold. He was gonna put an over-ride switch in the circuit, but I never found that copy.

Oh and the circuit diagram is in japanese.

Oh my, you're such a f*cking twit INASNT.

You've been working as a Mech Eng for how long now?

You're so far up yourself it isn't funny.

My dad's been a Civil Eng for ~40 years. Don't show off, it wont impress me. You don't compare to what my dad shows me you twit.

Anyway, anyone can surf the web and find pictures like this. For all we know you're a bum with too much blue/pink paint.

Originally posted by INASNT

poyz

just remember u will always be my hero!

and if u think your car is something so powerful, its not, these are the types of powerful machines i work with every day designing and engineering and get payed a packet to do it 2!!, not that i need to prove anything to u!

attachment.php?s=&postid=320525

yes thats right 12,500 BHP at 600rpm

attachment.php?s=&postid=320527

attachment.php?s=&postid=320529

i can show u stuff about mechanics u didnt even know existed!

so dont think u have anything over me u DONT i can run many a circle around u if i wanted 2!

Thats all i have to say about that!

now back on topic!

My dad's works in your feild. I've seen stuff like this. So you're working on a dam right? He's doing some Dam or Wind thing in SA.

I'll ask him about what he's doing at SA (Hallet?) at the moment. I'm sure even you'll be impressed.

I believe you. Btw: Who do you work for?

*coff* do I smell a shitfight? poyz control ya temper... and inasnt... stop fvkkin whoring shit... and keep ya grudges off other people's threads.

If the both of you don't stop as of this post i will delete all your posts in every thread where you have argued.

Fair enough.

Thread summary.

* You can use your central locking to trigger your mirrors to fold in when the doors lock (Note: Make sure that this trigger checks to see if your key is turned to ACC or ON. Otherwise you'll be driving around with your mirrors folded in.)

* You can use an auxilary output (ie to turn your windows up on certain alarms) to fold your mirrors in

* Spare yourself all the trouble and pay someone to figure it out.

I'm using my central locking. The mirrors fold back out when I turn the key to ACC.

Ula's using his alarm. He got his alarm fitter to do it. He has to use to use the switch to fold them back out.

If the key is set to ACC or ON all that happens is the doors will lock.

Otherwise, the doors will lock and the mirrors fold in.

IMHO, this is better, it's independant from your alarm (Should your alarm die or you feel the need to get a better alarm - ie. Quicktrak).

I've got my mirror switch permanently in the fold-out position.

  • 2 weeks later...

you'd wanna connect a relay to the battery wire and the negative terminal of the mirror switch and another wire from the door lock sensor. that way when the door lock sensor is on then the mirror close gets power, and when the door lock sensor is off, then the mirror close is whatever the switch is at.

In the R32 the mirror close switch only works when there is power to the accessory system. So that's why you need to connect it straight to the wire.

Also you'd wanna put a safety in there which prevents the mirror close switch from being active while the accessory wire has power (ie you are in the car)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...