Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd like to hear from people with experience in using flat tops or even dished pistons in a RB30 with a 26 head.

Flat tops usually give a C/R of 8.2-8.3, dished can get you down to the low 7's

I want to hear from guys who have made big power (as in 600,800, 1000hp+) when using flat tops or dished pistons, only in a RB30 and only when using a 26 head.

If you can answer the following:

1) what shape did you use, flat tops(8.2-8.3:1), very slight dish(high 7's to 8.2:1) or larger dish (lower than high 7's:1)

2) what fuel did you use

3) what cams (if you want to say) and head work, none, mild, extensive.

4) what turbo

5) how much power did you make, at what boost, with what torque, rpm etc

6) without NOS, hp?

6) with NOS hp?

This may seem a strange request from me but I have a situation that needs independent outside input.

PLEASE, only post if you can back it up with dyno printouts, video proof etc, not my mate said this and that please.

Feel free to add dyno printouts here, e-mail me dyno printouts or PM me if you'd rather others didn't see your data.

Thanks Rob

Edited by R.I.P.S NZ
I'd like to hear from people with experience in using flat tops or even dished pistons in a RB30 with a 26 head.

Flat tops usually give a C/R of 8.2-8.3, dished can get you down to the low 7's

I want to hear from guys who have made big power (as in 600,800, 1000hp+) when using flat tops or dished pistons, only in a RB30 and only when using a 26 head.

If you can answer the following:

1) what shape did you use, flat tops(8.2-8.3:1), very slight dish(high 7's to 8.2:1) or larger dish (lower than high 7's:1)

2) what fuel did you use

3) what cams (if you want to say) and head work, none, mild, extensive.

4) what turbo

5) how much power did you make, at what boost, with what torque, rpm etc

6) without NOS, hp?

6) with NOS hp?

This may seem a strange request from me but I have a situation that needs independent outside input.

PLEASE, only post if you can back it up with dyno printouts, video proof etc, not my mate said this and that please.

Feel free to add dyno printouts here, e-mail me dyno printouts or PM me if you'd rather others didn't see your data.

Thanks Rob

Why do you ask this Rob , as i have made 580 atw 0n 19lb with 98 Ultimate, Ross flat tops- i have dyno sheets. I am interested why you ask this as?

Why do you ask this Rob , as i have made 580 atw 0n 19lb with 98 Ultimate, Ross flat tops- i have dyno sheets. I am interested why you ask this as?

Thanks for your reply, its a long story but I need input from as many people as possible who have made good power with flat tops or even dished pistons in a 26/30, PLEASE put up your dyno printout and I'll explain everything once I have a few more replies on here.

Nothing shady going on I assure you

Thanks Rob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...