Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for all the replys.

If it is clearance issues why does it change then? Its ONLY when it has been sitting still for a little minutte, it "binds".

Have measured accuratly today with a torque dial gauge. (built in dial gauge), range 0-8N. Its calibrated 2 times a year.

To break the "bind" it need ~6 N.

To rotate it need ~2N, after the "bind" has been broken.

If I start rotate just after stop, I still need ~2N.

If I wait 15 sec, it need ~6N to begin rotation again. (If I wait 5 min. it still is 6N to begin rotation)

There is NO spots were it need more or less N to keep rotation.

Have talked to a engine builder here in Denmark. He says when the crank rotates it draws oil on to the surfaces, 2N friction, when it sits still the oil runs back in the grooves, and crank makes contact with bearing, that is what I need to overcome?

The block is upside down, and havnt tryed doing this when block isnt upside down. Could this have any influance?

Tomorrow I should check for endfloat, and run out on number 4 bearing? What more should I check?

The crankshaft runs on a hydrodynamic wedge of oil which can be squeezed out when the crank sits for a bit and the crank sits against the bearing. Once you turn the crank you pull oil between the crank and the bearing and the crank floats on it. I'd still check the end float, most bearings are made at the maximum thrust flange width which can reduce the thrust clearance anyway. It's quite common to have to sand the thrust face of the bearings to provide the proper end float.

Cheers,

Greg.

Endfloat is: 0.08mm

Run out, measured on number 4 main bearing, is 0.015mm. This is total what the dial show. Souldnt this be cut in half to get correct run out number?

Edited by nissan200sx.dk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...