Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a non turbo R34 and want to put a turbo on it, I have been told that it is easier and cheaper to buy a whole new engine, is this true?

Sorry if this is a repost but I couldnt find what I needed in the search.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180939-what-is-cheaper-and-easier/
Share on other sites

There's a sticky up the top about converting the gts to a turbo.. And how much it roughly costs..

As for doing the engine swap that probably has more potential down the track because you don't have to take the engine apart and mess around with the compression if you want to run more boost.

im still a firm believer in upgrading other components before addressing power issues

ive heard of too many stories of people wrapping there hard earned time and money around a pole/tree because they thought for example that the stock single piston caliper front/drum rear brakes were sufficient for their 200rwkw turbocharged corolla/escort/excel/insert any run around car

i would consider first upgrading the braking department to the GT-T items first, then maybe doing the engine swap

in the case of an r34 im quite sure it will end up cheaper to turbo your current motor, as this is why 666DAN went down this track, neo motors still arnt that cheap.

yeah this is true, r33 gtst half cuts are getting pretty cheap 3-4k but you would be looking for at least 5-6k for a neo half cut, and thats if you can get it.

It would be cheaper to do a full engine swap if you had a r33, but in a r34 i would say a bolt on would be the cheapest

im still a firm believer in upgrading other components before addressing power issues

ive heard of too many stories of people wrapping there hard earned time and money around a pole/tree because they thought for example that the stock single piston caliper front/drum rear brakes were sufficient for their 200rwkw turbocharged corolla/escort/excel/insert any run around car

i would consider first upgrading the braking department to the GT-T items first, then maybe doing the engine swap

oh so true. spot on there!!! i think alot of people lose sight of this, and just want to be able to claim XXXRWKW; like it elevates them to some higher status

the tyres, brakes and suspension play such a big role in controlling the car, rather than outright power or (having a turbo).

i think a good point to note about why RB25DET motors are so cheap, is because they are nearing on 13-14 years, and even imported you are looking around 100,000km~ish for a halfcut. they almost certainly would require a freshen up or a rebuild while the motor is out to get any sort of reliably upp'ed power figures.

mmm. I can get The Late-model R34 RB25DET NEO engine, gearbox, loom and ECU etc package for $6000. But then its all got to be put in aswel. I guess ill think more about it when I have the $.

Thanks for your advice x

its not a hard job to change the motor over yourself, just have to have a bit of witt about yourself lol

i'd suggest if your getting then engine motor ecu ect i would also get the turbo fuel pump too for like 50-100 its a good idea because the stock ecu is tunned with that fuel pump so it might throw it off having a smaller pump, bit of extra secruity is always good

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...