Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I have a R33 gtst with FMIC, turbo back exhaust, boost controller, boost gauge, apexi pod installed recently.

When I adjust the boost up to 12 psi, while it's boosting up to around 10 psi, the car will popping, sounds like missing fires, but not too sure about it.

Would you guys know if there's a fuel or boost cut of R33?

I am new to skyline so please help.

If the fuel is too rich to cause those popping noise out of the exhaust, would Emanage solve that problem? or a stand alone EMS just like microtech or something.

Which series of microtech is the best for R33 Rb25det?

Thank you

Benny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181146-r33-gtst-problem/
Share on other sites

Sounds like your coil packs mate,they will most likely have hairline cracks in em from being under the cover and getting hot. pull em out, wrap some fire retardent electrical tape round em n see if that helps. if so time to look at some spit fire packs!

do a search for more info, has been heaps of discussion diagnosing problems that ends up bein coil packs!~

if its not that, put it on dyno and see if its leaning out, could be fuel pump playin up.

cheerscheers!

brett

The microtech ltx12s is most suitable for the r33.

Try searching the forums before asking a question next time, your problem probably is caused by incorrect spark plug gap. Gap the plugs to 0.7mm with some feeler guages and it should be fine. i personally think its a safer option to run no more than 10psi through the standard turbo with standard ecu. They tend to develop a flat spot. All this information has been covered, if you want more just search.

I'd agree on the spark plugs, either gap what you have or replace the ones you got with gaps already at 0.8 i think

May as well replace em while you're at it, you have to eventually anyway.

I doubt its the coils on that sort of power.

And i'd personally allow up to 12psi on the standard.

...but that's up to you, i had no probs for over a year before upgrading.

13-14 is getting dangerous, particulatly 14.

..but then again, some peeps prolly go bang on 11psi, but never heard/read of any real issues on 12psi

I have the same mods, I upped my boost to 10psi and after a month or so I started to get the same problem. I got a cheap tested set off a fellow sau member and that fixed the problem, unfortunatly I am now getting the same problem around the 5krpm range, so if you try and change the plugs and that doesn't work then go and spend the $512 and get Splitfires from Slide.

Hi. Please take the time to have a search.

This is a common problem as flies in your home :)

Search for "+rich +retard" and you'll find dozens upon dozens of threads about increasing boost, without management.

Cheers

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
×
×
  • Create New...