Stalling Problem...

[dori34]

hey guys,

car in question is a auto r32 rb20det skyline.

on reverse the revs drop reallly low and usually stalls. i gotta put it in N rev and rev and chuck back into R.

also when i start the car and after warming up, the revs stay really high around 1500-2000 (sometimes higher).

what can i do to fix this problem?

cheers

[Kwyjibo]

hey guys,

car in question is a auto r32 rb20det skyline.

on reverse the revs drop reallly low and usually stalls. i gotta put it in N rev and rev and chuck back into R.

also when i start the car and after warming up, the revs stay really high around 1500-2000 (sometimes higher).

what can i do to fix this problem?

cheers

Very similar problems I had when I bought my car.

For the stalling problem check that your BOV hasn't been blocked off or venting straight to the atmosphere. To check if it is blocked off just undo the two bolts connecting it to the crossover pipe, if it is blocked there will be a piece of metal blocking the hole. If it isn't this listen for any misfires as you may be dropping a cylinder.

Your high idle is probably due to 3 things.

First thing to check is TPS, it is connected to the throttle body facing towards the front of the car, if you loosen it a bit and fiddle with it the revs should go up and down depending on the position after a few seconds.

The second is the AAC valve, it is also connected to the intake manifold facing towards the drivers side, it has an idle adjust screw. Try adjusting this after unplugging the AAC, if this doesn't help clean the AAC valve. There is a great tutorial for doing this in the tutorials section if you just search, it is for R33's but it is exactly the same process for an R32. If this doesn't help it is probably the 3rd(and sounds most likely if revs are the same from a minute or so after starting to fully warm).

The IAC or cold idle regulator sits just under the throttle body snug under the intake manifold. The IAC consists of a plate held in by a tiny pin holding it down and a small spring holding it in place. As the car warms up a signal is sent to pull on this plate and close the valve(less air = lower idle). I have a constant issue where the pin comes loose, the spring pulls more than it should so the valve is constantly open. It is quite annoying to pull out. It has two bolts quite deep below the manifold which must be undone. The hose on the top of it connects to a T-Piece, and another hose underneath it connects to the intake manifold, there is also a plug just behind the hose connecting to the manifold. I usually don't pull it out completely but due to the tiny size of parts inside I would. After that it is as simple as unscrewing the screws(make sure you don't round them off!) and pulling it apart, make sure it is sitting the right way up. Here you can push the plate in properly with the pin and re set the spring. Hopefully yours isn't like mine and it doesn't keep happening.

If you still have problems I'd start looking at things like replacing the AFM.

Hope this helps!

Adrian

[dori34]

Very similar problems I had when I bought my car.

For the stalling problem check that your BOV hasn't been blocked off or venting straight to the atmosphere. To check if it is blocked off just undo the two bolts connecting it to the crossover pipe, if it is blocked there will be a piece of metal blocking the hole. If it isn't this listen for any misfires as you may be dropping a cylinder.

Your high idle is probably due to 3 things.

First thing to check is TPS, it is connected to the throttle body facing towards the front of the car, if you loosen it a bit and fiddle with it the revs should go up and down depending on the position after a few seconds.

The second is the AAC valve, it is also connected to the intake manifold facing towards the drivers side, it has an idle adjust screw. Try adjusting this after unplugging the AAC, if this doesn't help clean the AAC valve. There is a great tutorial for doing this in the tutorials section if you just search, it is for R33's but it is exactly the same process for an R32. If this doesn't help it is probably the 3rd(and sounds most likely if revs are the same from a minute or so after starting to fully warm).

The IAC or cold idle regulator sits just under the throttle body snug under the intake manifold. The IAC consists of a plate held in by a tiny pin holding it down and a small spring holding it in place. As the car warms up a signal is sent to pull on this plate and close the valve(less air = lower idle). I have a constant issue where the pin comes loose, the spring pulls more than it should so the valve is constantly open. It is quite annoying to pull out. It has two bolts quite deep below the manifold which must be undone. The hose on the top of it connects to a T-Piece, and another hose underneath it connects to the intake manifold, there is also a plug just behind the hose connecting to the manifold. I usually don't pull it out completely but due to the tiny size of parts inside I would. After that it is as simple as unscrewing the screws(make sure you don't round them off!) and pulling it apart, make sure it is sitting the right way up. Here you can push the plate in properly with the pin and re set the spring. Hopefully yours isn't like mine and it doesn't keep happening.

If you still have problems I'd start looking at things like replacing the AFM.

Hope this helps!

Adrian

thanks for the info adrian, ill have a go checking it out when the weather clears up !