Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Controllers

R338OY

By R338OY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

turbo tech is now about $35.

there are install diagrams in that "$22" thread.

hose goes in one side, another hose on the other side.

done.

electronic ones require a power, earth source at least.

and cost more than double.

the turbotech bleed valve is perfect for what you want.

and very easy to install.

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Kane_R32 Experienced

Kane_R32

Posted
Posted
turbosmart e-boost2 brand new model for the win more than just a boost controller :action-smiley-069:

These are very good. Only thing I didn't like about them was the beep when you reach the set psi level.

Apart from that very good. 3 pre-set boost levels and flick the switch and tap the buttoon on ur shifter to select one of the preset boost levels and away you go.

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted (edited)
cool...

so what are you personal experiences with a bleed valve vs an ebc?

I ran the TURBOTECH on my VL turbo, about 14psi. I mean it held 14psi well, wasn't that hard to adjust or set up.

Took about 10 minutes, if that.

Didnt spike or creep at all, sometimes I pushed it to 16psi also.

Installed a AVCR into my cousins R33.. Now he only runs about 12psi, the work involved with it, then the configuration procedure, its just not worth it.

I mean it still spikes 1-2psi, its still not set correctly. and it was just a head ache to configure. Its so timely..

Where as he was running my TURBOTECH prior to that on his R33, and it held 12psi all day, and it held it fine.

He has a SLIDE high flow turbo, cooler, exhaust, usual mods.

Where talking about a product worth about $400odd vs a product worth $30 max.

I know what I will be going with..

Edited by abu
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
Electric is cooler you can change it on tap.

as long as you know what you are doing and don't stuff it up. if you do stuff it up then you have to pay someone to reset it. with the manual controllers they are straight foward and if you do stuff up it is easy to go back to where you were and start over.

R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just checked out that $22 thread. The diagram makes it look very simple to install. Too bad the Ebay link is invalid :P . I was a bit iffy about bleed valves until now. My mate (has an r32 with EBC) said they spike and are shit. But i've got a boost gauge and there's that spring lock on the TTech. Safe as.

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted (edited)
Just checked out that $22 thread. The diagram makes it look very simple to install. Too bad the Ebay link is invalid :P . I was a bit iffy about bleed valves until now. My mate (has an r32 with EBC) said they spike and are shit. But i've got a boost gauge and there's that spring lock on the TTech. Safe as.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbotech-manual-tu...1QQcmdZViewItem

There you go.

Edited by abu
abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted (edited)
oh well... i know what i'd be buying

It just comes down to what you prefer and past experiences.

I mean you may like EBC as you may have had/heard of bad experiences with a bleed valve.

Just with an EBC, most people would probably have to get it installed professionally as they probably dont want to hack into the wiring themselves, also if you have never used/setup one, they are not the easiest thing to configure.

EBC's such as AVCR can be set up on various RPM points, so probably best to get it tuned on a dyno for good safe AFRs and to prevent spiking/creeping.

Installation + tuning + the cost of the EBC.. you end up paying heaps.

Edited by abu
DK1983 Explorer

DK1983

Posted
Posted

Go EBC, ur upgrading so you might as well do it right the first time.

$22 for a bleed valve but then then u stil have to buy a boost gauge which is alot more money. just buy a ebc which will hold your boost better and show you your boost all in one.

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
It just comes down to what you prefer and past experiences.

I mean you may like EBC as you may have had/heard of bad experiences with a bleed valve.

Just with an EBC, most people would probably have to get it installed professionally as they probably dont want to hack into the wiring themselves, also if you have never used/setup one, they are not the easiest thing to configure.

EBC's such as AVCR can be set up on various RPM points, so probably best to get it tuned on a dyno for good safe AFRs and to prevent spiking/creeping.

Installation + tuning + the cost of the EBC.. you end up paying heaps.

its true, but there are other ebc's out there that do the job

for instance, i had one of those $80 GFB bleed valves, it was great at the start, got it tuned with the safc and the boost wasn't steady at all on 12psi, it would creep and taper off all this crap... the tuner said "if you want a steady curve that doesn't taper off at the end get an EBC"

so next step was for the EBC, i found the Hybrid one for $250 delivered, the solenoid is the same as the turbosmart and the avcr's

i fitted that and the GFB one i got rid of, never went back to a bleed valve again... the turbotech ones seem different to bleed valves so who knows it might work just as well for the price

but no one has answered my question in post #9, does it come on boost as hard and fast as a ebc? and does it hold better than an ebc thats set up correctly?

at the end of the day your right its personal choice and now i would not piss on bleed valve or a manual boost controller

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

at the end of the day you dont need to spend $600 on a ebc. You can use this cheap valve and save yourself some money.

I have put the turbotech on MANY cars and i have never changed my thoughts about them. They just work really really good and thats all there is to it.

If you got lots of money to burn then give it to me! dont buy a ebc if you dont really need one.

Look at my dyno sheet down below. look how good it holds boost. i have seen many ebc's hold boost crapola compared to that.

Even my AVCR does not hold boost as good as the Turbotech. I am going to try and mod my AVCR to work with the Apexi PFC to controll it instead.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

Need one.. ok i can think of a few reasons why someone would need one.

1: you have a 350rwkw and you dont want to drive around every day on that and you want to change the boost by the press of the button for when you want to impress your mates or the girlies

2: You have troubles driving the car on full boost everywhere and require the speed dependant boost controll.

3: you must have all the cool toys and you have money to burn.

There :laughing-smiley-014:

so when do you "really" need one?

the way i've come across your posts is that you never need one because if you were able to hold 25psi so then why would anyone need one?

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
Need one.. ok i can think of a few reasons why someone would need one.

1: you have a 350rwkw and you dont want to drive around every day on that and you want to change the boost by the press of the button for when you want to impress your mates or the girlies

2: You have troubles driving the car on full boost everywhere and require the speed dependant boost controll.

3: you must have all the cool toys and you have money to burn.

There :laughing-smiley-014:

great answer there mate...

so what about the ebc coming on boost faster than the turbotech... or is that not true?

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
I ran the TURBOTECH on my VL turbo, about 14psi. I mean it held 14psi well, wasn't that hard to adjust or set up.

Took about 10 minutes, if that.

Didnt spike or creep at all, sometimes I pushed it to 16psi also.

Installed a AVCR into my cousins R33.. Now he only runs about 12psi, the work involved with it, then the configuration procedure, its just not worth it.

I mean it still spikes 1-2psi, its still not set correctly. and it was just a head ache to configure. Its so timely..

Where as he was running my TURBOTECH prior to that on his R33, and it held 12psi all day, and it held it fine.

He has a SLIDE high flow turbo, cooler, exhaust, usual mods.

Where talking about a product worth about $400odd vs a product worth $30 max.

I know what I will be going with..

remmember AVCR is well over 10 years old and was never all that good to start with.... honestley they look good and thats it. A BLITZ DSBC will out perform it and the turbotech all day everyday

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa 路 Posted

      To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 馃榿 Definitely the car
    • Duncan
      S1 headlights?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • Celticsfan03
      S1 headlights?

      By Celticsfan03 路 Posted

      The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It鈥檒l be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • WMDC35
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By WMDC35 路 Posted

      If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
脳
脳
  • Create New...