Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the 2nd one got nicer blinkers and looks more aggressive yeah,

the only con I have is that it sticks out a bit too much

Might be just the angle of the shot, it doesn't stick out at all if you look at it in person.

Compared to other kits like C West er34cwest1.jpg

it (the TS bar) actually looks restrained and more factory looking than anything else.

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Will do.

Dont u have the Do-Luck kit R34NRG? Dont think this lip will suit/fit that kit.

yep i got the do luck kit. i would love a lip i just think it looks so much better. the original gtr do luck kit did come with a bonnet lip but it was much thinner like the nismo tune.

heres a pic

Gallary_08.jpg

How was fitment on the kit? Almost direct fit or bad mold? Concidering getting one :)

Oh is it much longer (from top to bottom) than the stock plastic bumper?

Fitment was not perfect but was very good in aftermarket standards. Good mold, everything aligned as they should. I am quite happy with it.

From what I can remember it was an inch or so "deeper" than the factory bar. Will get some measurements for you when I get home.

that r34 looks nice! I wanted to buy a 34 but coundnt splash out the extra 3 grand...

I think the difference between a 33Gts-t & 34Gt-t is more than $3k, quite alot more comparing ones with similar mods & condition. If not u either got jibbed on ur 33 or u shoulda got the 34, much better looking inside n out and better performance.

Perthiscool - i think u may find the deciding factor could be cost, there's a big difference in cost between the 2 bars.

I think the difference between a 33Gts-t & 34Gt-t is more than $3k, quite alot more comparing ones with similar mods & condition. If not u either got jibbed on ur 33 or u shoulda got the 34, much better looking inside n out and better performance.

not really I bought my r33 GTST for 14 grand. And when I was buying there was plenty of r34 GTT's for around 17-18 grand. (I'm talking about second hand ones of course)

Edited by -=MC=- Coolio
looks hawt mate. im throwing up weather to get top secret or get east bear gtr kit... hmmm...decitions

If you could afford the east bear gtr kit then its the obvious choice. Perfect fitment plus OEM look, you can't ask for more.

Hey Guys

This East Bar lip that is pictured 6 posts up.... thats exactly what i need, any one know how i can get my hands on one?

Thanks

That east bear lip is same one as I had previously (see Post #1) Contact Powerplayimports if you want one.

How was fitment on the kit? Almost direct fit or bad mold? Concidering getting one :mellow:

Oh is it much longer (from top to bottom) than the stock plastic bumper?

Heres the measurement as promised.

bumpercloseup.jpg

Not sure of the height of the stock bumper but from what I can remember there was only about an inch difference between the two.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...