Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

whats the deal.. Slave cylinders should be $20-$30 yet the only ones i see on here are all genuine nissan for $95+

Yeh sure its a gtr whatever.. just dont see the need to pay so much for a basic part

Has anyone managed to find aftermarket part for a r32 GTR ?

Edit : its a 89 gtr so the push type for mine i guess.

genuine nissan theres the first problem, take your slave cylinder to a brake/clutch specialist and see if they can compare it to a different model car, ie my 32 has a slave cylinder that is also used on a series 3 TRX bluebird which is $18.

Yeh i understand but ive trawled these forums for info on aftermarket for 32 gtr and no one seems to mention them.. maybe there is a part number that works and people are keeping it a secret.

It would suck to have to get the slave off the car, its my daily driver and all ive got atm

Where u get quoted $95 from?

Not that it matters too much anyhow, i went and paid $114 from northside nissan for mine. Mike at ABS (v good service) in osy park was going to match it up for me. Needed to take it off then go see him on a satuday. Was just more convienient for me to buy one that i knew would fit and replace it, less stuffing round. Yeh is just a basic 3/4" slave, nothing special about it. Coventries, repco etc etc only have the r31 skyline one available, different part # to the gtr one apparently

People don't normally keep part numbers secret - there's no reason to.

Most liekly, no one has thought of finding an aftermarket one yet. e.g. when they heard the price $95, they bit the bullet, and said yes sir.

I find that nissan has a range of parts with some very cheap (compared to other manufacturers), some very expensive. e.g. take an oil filter as an example - $7.20. Even valvoline ones at supercheap are $10.

Normally, I just bite the bullet with nissan because I'm lazy, and I would like to believe that they are better quality (not necessarily the case :)

honda ones are all around $60ish buck's cept s2000's n nsx's which are around the $230 mark so i dont reckon $95 is to much of a rip off, although when customers really really annoy my boss i've seen that $60 has been known to make its way up as far as $115, me on the other hand i like to charge the correct prices, and discounts to the pretty ladyz and anyone who mentions anything about moddifying cars or skylines,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...