Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-32122-1187860281_thumb.jpg post-32122-1187860332_thumb.jpg post-32122-1187860574_thumb.jpg post-32122-1187860364_thumb.jpg post-32122-1187860441_thumb.jpg post-32122-1187860610_thumb.jpgpost-32122-1187860404_thumb.jpg

Item: 1994 R33 GTS-T with GT-R engine conversion

Location: Varsity Lakes, Gold Coast

Website: http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/&a...icle_id=4574533

Item Condition: Good

Reason for Selling: Baby on the way

Price and Payment Conditions: 18 000 ono, May be open to swaps with cash my way for the right car

Extra Info: 94 model R33 skyline with RB26DETT engine conversion from 1990 R32 GT-R, engine has around 75000km on it, engine swap has been mod plated, 2 K&N air filters, strut brace, Greddy/Trust 5 way adjustable cam gears with Greddy extra strength timing belt done around 5000km ago, Apexi power FC computer, also has Exedy super heavy duty 8 puck soft cushion clutch worth $1800, turbosmart supersonic blow off valve, huge ARE front mount intercooler, Ross racing balancer, larger fuel pump, Eboost 2 boost controller (these things are awesome! Dial in different boost levels for different gears, control shift lights, intercooler water sprayers and heaps more) autometer air/fuel ratio gauge, 3" exhaust from dump pipes back to 5" tip, full bodykit with nismo front bar, 17x8" on front, 17x9" on back R33 GT-R wheels sprayed a very dark blue (looks black at night) near new Federal tyres worth alot of money!! Big SPL sound system with 12" alpine type R sub and 600w RMS power coustic amp,pioneer 6x9's, blaupunkt splits, alpine MP3 head unit (system can be taken out to reduce price) Avital alarm with Keyless entry and central locking. Always garaged and maintained very well. Price Negotiable

Contact Details: 0424441852 call after 5pm mon to fri and after 3 on sat...msg any time and i will reply when i can

Just paid 6 months rego, now registered till 26/2/08, also clutch has only done about 5000km too, was installed at the same time as the cam gears and timing belt, has 6 platinum plugs, cost $150. Not too bad a price for almost a 33 GT-R :rolleyes:

Edited by zoidburgg
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182096-33-gts-t-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Thanx Abu, unfortunately the owner of my next car is waiting for the cash so i've gotta drop the price to 19.5K :whistling: Needs to go ASAP

Edited by zoidburgg

Bump!! May be open to swaps, let me know what you got, would prefer a sale but maybe a swap with cash my way coulp happen for the right car. I also have more pics if anyone wants some pics of anything else.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...