Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cheap way just drill a small hole in the bottom then let water leak out, then get a hairdryer make the heat go into the hole and it should dry up the residue then with the hole in the bottom it wont build up anymore

  • 2 weeks later...
DIY Thread;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=water+in+light

Had similar problem, took to mechanic to reseal tail-light and got it done for $50. Not worth the effort for such a small price in my opinion

get windscreen sealer for a couple dollars from your repco/autobarn, and seal it yourself..

it took me literally 10 mins to take light housing out, dry, put back in, and seal

in my case (R33) i took a good 2/3hours maybe even more for the whole thing but they are real to take out, require ALOT of force. I thought it was the seal around the tail light that went bad but it wasnt coz it still does the same thing

it actually was the seal between the reverse light section and brake light section (if you have an r33 you know what i mean)

ended up doing what the fellow up above said, drilled small holes and never looked back!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...