Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 97 R33 with 60,000klms on the dash. Occasionally after starting my car it will splutter around a bit before idling correctly or stall completely if I do not rev it for a little while. This mostly occurs first thing in the morning but has occured on other occasions during the day after re-starting my car even as soon as 10 minutes after stopping it. Also while driving I will get occasional popping/misfiring noises from the exhaust, mostly on gear changes (more so changing up). These seem to be more noticeable after booting it.

I purchased the car only a week ago and I'm slowly working my way through some general maintenance related which is working out more expensive than I expected, front rotors are stuffed - ah well, RDA groupbuy time lol. Replaced the O2 sensor, which although has helped fuel economy quite well has not fixed this problem.

I think the problem is something to do with the spark plugs/coils. The seller told me he installed platinum plugs at 40,000klms. After a few searches it seems that everyone on here is not a fan of the platinums. I'll replace them with some copper spark plugs tomorrow afternoon to start with. What size gap / type do I want to get (pod filter, cat back exhaust)? I'm guessing trying 1.0mm would be a good idea?

If the problem's still there I'll most likely be getting some splitfires. Is there anything else I should try before that step? Would spark plug leads cause this occasional problem? What's the average life on a set of splitfire coils?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183397-what-spark-plug-size/
Share on other sites

Plugs see here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=104405

Coil packs:

My factor ones ran over 350rwkw, 10 years old.

So any replacements can be expected to run the same time or longer.

You dont have spark plug leads, so nothing to replace :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...