Jump to content
SAU Community

Waterless Wash?

shredder667

By shredder667,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

shredder667 Rising Star

shredder667

Posted
Posted

being the avid water conserver that i am i bought a bottle of the ol' spray on waterless wash and been using it and find its pretty alright stuff but i've heard it's real bad for the paint? anyone confirm this? cuz i don't wanna be harming my baby.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184033-waterless-wash/
Share on other sites
CeJay Grand Master

CeJay

Posted
Posted

Might be but I havent heard anything confirming that. Normally I give it a once over at carlovers if it's really dirty and then use plenty of towels while im using the waterless wash. Main thing is not too have big particles of dirt on the car when your cleaning it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184033-waterless-wash/#findComment-3333189
Share on other sites
Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was a detailer for almost 3 years a while back and I would NEVER use a waterless wash on any car...

That said, it does depend on what colour car is too, if your car is Silver, White or Light grey you can get away with more because those colours dont show up scratches as much but black, blue, red or alot of other darker colours WILL scratch a lot easier using a waterless wash.

I say, go to car lovers RINSE your car with the sprayer (dont use the brush or the so called "hot wax") then drive the long way home to air dry it and use a nice soft chamois and polish cloth to finish it off. :nyaanyaa:

Edited by Bullet32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184033-waterless-wash/#findComment-3333567
Share on other sites
shredder667 Rising Star

shredder667

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I was a detailer for almost 3 years a while back and I would NEVER use a waterless wash on any car...

That said, it does depend on what colour car is too, if your car is Silver, White or Light grey you can get away with more because those colours dont show up scratches as much but black, blue, red or alot of other darker colours WILL scratch a lot easier using a waterless wash.

I say, go to car lovers RINSE your car with the sprayer (dont use the brush or the so called "hot wax") then drive the long way home to air dry it and use a nice soft chamois and polish cloth to finish it off. :P

why not the brush or the wax? whats the go?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184033-waterless-wash/#findComment-3334054
Share on other sites
TeeJay1600 Enthusiast

TeeJay1600

Posted
Posted

The BRUSH NO!!!! the dude in the 4wd befor you doesnt care about leaving rocks etc. in it plus thery are made from some rough crap...

Just go wash your car at night and take your own sponge/chamios/cleaning equip... no cranky operator tellin you off then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184033-waterless-wash/#findComment-3334072
Share on other sites
Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted

Dont use the brush because (as TeeJay1600 said) there is almost always foreign crap like stones, sand, tar or mud in the bristles which as much as you spray the brush will still be there when you wash with it.

Even though they say that the brush wont hurt your paint, I have seen the evidence and can say that it is just as bad as using an automated car wash.

The so called "Hot wax" is just hot water mixed with some sort of waxy slime that dries onto your car and leaves streaks that dont polish out, the only way to get them out is to have the car machine buffed, I had to do this to a mates Skyline after he used the hot wax and it took 3 hours to buff the streaks out.

If you love your car, rinse it with the pre-wash rinse and then the high pressure rinse and THATS IT!

Take a good chamois with you and chamois it (if there isnt still crap on the paint) and then when you get home give it a good polish or hit it with some Meguires cleaner clay to get rid of any tar spots or dead bug marks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184033-waterless-wash/#findComment-3338392
Share on other sites
leech_ Grand Master

leech_

Posted
Posted

You could do what I do which is tedious but hey it works... *Note: Make sure you do this after operating hours or you will be asked to leave :D*

- Fill a Thermos with boiling water, take a bucket and some car washing liquid.

- Go to one of the car washes.

- Give the car a high pressure blast with the hose

- pour the washing liquid and boiling water into the bucket and use the hose to fill (usually the less powerful mode or it tends to blow your bucket halfway across the car wash (yes I have done this, it's funny to everyone except you hehe)).

- wash the car as you would normally (if there are others around I do it a lot quicker and usually have it done quicker than your regular Joe Blow)

- use the high pressure rinse again.

- Chamois.

Bobs your uncle you have a nice clean car that has not damaged the paint.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184033-waterless-wash/#findComment-3338546
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...