Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://youtube.com/watch?v=R_oPRiMRs68

hi all, i just recently noticed my tacho doing crazy things, it either does as in the video, or hesitates for a moment

then keeps going, also the rpm displayed is slightly off as well, it does it when driving or when reving at stand still, all the

other gauges read correctly. do you think the dash cluster is on its way out or could it be another problem?

any suggestions would be awesome guys :) thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184196-tachometer-dying/
Share on other sites

Where would he get a speedo cable from? You guessing or has someone actually had this problem?

I'm just assuming that the speedo cable is the problem. You can get speedo cables from wreckers, but they could be stuffed aswell. Best to get one new from Nissan. I think it was about $100.

R33 doesnt have speedo cable its electronic!!!!!!

Not to mntion his problem was with the tacho not speedo lol...

Pretty sure its a cold solder joint or similar that causes it on the back of the dash cluster, just buy a new cluster off ebay or wrecked r33, alternatively, it gives you a good excuse to upgrade to a nismo 320km/h dash cluster ;)

Edited by MintR33
R33 doesnt have speedo cable its electronic!!!!!!

Not to mntion his problem was with the tacho not speedo lol...

Pretty sure its a cold solder joint or similar that causes it on the back of the dash cluster, just buy a new cluster off ebay or wrecked r33, alternatively, it gives you a good excuse to upgrade to a nismo 320km/h dash cluster :wacko:

:rofl: I didn't realise 33's didn't have these speedo cables. I just assumed that the tacho problem was related to the speedo cable. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...