Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Spike Problems

Simmo1985

By Simmo1985,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've just finished installing the turbotech boost controller and an Autometer boost gauge.

Even on the lowest setting (boost controller screw loosened almost completely) I'm hitting around 14psi or so. 2nd gear usually comes to around 10-12, but third and fourth go all the way up to 14psi, not sure if it would go any higher as I stop accelerating when I see that. I've tried tightening the screw (can't loosen it any further) and I get the same results.

For some reason my boost gauge isn't showing any boost in 1st gear? I probably just wasn't gunning it in 1st though.

What could the problem be?

I've installed the turbotech bc as per instructions in the DIY section of this site. Fairly sure the autometer gauge is accurate and installed correctly. Seems to be consistent with the dash gauge (i.e. the needle of both boost gauges hit 0 at the same time).

EDIT - Mods include JJ Cooling Pro type 1 FMIC, full 3" exhaust with hi-flow cat.

Edited by Simmo1985
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185130-boost-spike-problems/
Share on other sites
Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not sure if this means anything to anyone, but before I installed the boost controller I took the car for a spin (just installed the boost gauge) and it seemed to hit low-boost mode (standard boost solenoid was still connected) fine, went to 5psi on the gauge however boost seemed to drop off noticeably in the higher revs.

I've got a feeling the problem is lying with the exhaust. It's a JJR split dump pipe.

ZENNON Grand Master

ZENNON

Posted
Posted

what boost do you get if you run a line from the intercooler pipe to the actuator (will be the minimum boost that your car will make) check that the wastegate isnt fouling on the pipe and try taking off the heat shield too or modify it (it was in the way on mine) I had to die grind my turbo wastegate to get the boost down after the exhaust went on

Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Here is a pic of my setup. Is this right? If not what should I change?

I'm not too sure where that cord runs off to the left.. sorta disappears in near my radiator and seems to run to the bottom left hand side of the car.

The intercooler is a Cooling Pro type 1 from Just Jap. I've heard that these kits don't have a nipple or something or other.. Is this apart of my problem?

post-39834-1189913421_thumb.jpg

Edited by Simmo1985
tek_01 Proficient

tek_01

Posted
Posted

check the other post where you posted about your problem, i replied there but basically bypass your charcoal canister (which is probably where the lines are leading under the bottom left of your car) and see what that does

i had the EXACT same problem as you but as soon as i tried that, it was all good

btw by law you must run a charcoal canister

Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Before boost controller it was running just the standard boost, was running it pretty much normally.. However at higher revs boost seemed to drop off, not sure if this is normal as I only took the car for a quick drive after installing the gauge before moving onto boost controller install.

SevenAngryPenguins Proficient

SevenAngryPenguins

Posted
Posted (edited)

the pressure feed is the hose that comes off the side of the manifold and goes to your 'T' join. I would first connect that straight onto the actuator take car for a spin and check the boost level to ensure you have a good pressure feed (i assume you have a boost gauge) and that its not running a high boost level to start with

charcoal canister

Definition: A storage device in the evaporative emissions control system. It is a small cylindrical or rectangular container that contains activated charcoal particles. The charcoal traps gasoline vapors from the fuel tank (and carburetor on older vehicles). Later, the vapors are purged and drawn into the engine when the vehicle is being driven.

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins
Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I disconnected the line that is likely running to the charcoal canister and connected only the pressure line to the boost controller. Car is now holding 7psi like an absolute champion. No boost spikes or drops.

What's my best move from here? Just run the car with the charcoal canister lines disconnected and blocked permanently?

I'm just relieved it's not my dump pipe that needs replacing!! Thanks for the advice so far guys, keep it coming :unsure::P;) ..

SevenAngryPenguins Proficient

SevenAngryPenguins

Posted
Posted

hey mate just looked at your picture and noticed that you used the old rubber hose (the one with the red line on it coming off the 'T' joiner) take it off and check that it doesn't have the restictor inside it if it does just push it out and take for another spin

Simmo1985 Community Regular

Simmo1985

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, status update.. I checked the red hose - it did have a restrictor in the line. Removed it and re-hooked everything back up with the charcoal canister line. For some reasons my car does not run as well with this connected, it was hunting at idle and had hesitation when I was revving the engine in neutral.

Took it for a drive, second gear hit about 7psi stable.. third gear however was again going over 12psi.. must have something to do with the length of the hose or something.. maybe when they installed the FMIC they had to move the charcoal canister to somewhere else? Maybe it is supposed to sit a lot closer? My friends 180sx has that canister thing sitting on the front right side of the engine bay, just to the side of the radiator.

I guess I'll just disconnect the charcoal canister lines for now and block them off. Can anyone confirm this is safe to do?

SevenAngryPenguins Proficient

SevenAngryPenguins

Posted
Posted

as drifter said just 't' of the bov line or get a nipple put onto your intercooler pipe (which will make for nice short piping too) I wouldnt be messing with the canister if you dont have too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By MBS206 · Posted

      They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • joshuaho96
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Sleepergm
      Hks race car install

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
×
×
  • Create New...