Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just finished installing the turbotech boost controller and an Autometer boost gauge.

Even on the lowest setting (boost controller screw loosened almost completely) I'm hitting around 14psi or so. 2nd gear usually comes to around 10-12, but third and fourth go all the way up to 14psi, not sure if it would go any higher as I stop accelerating when I see that. I've tried tightening the screw (can't loosen it any further) and I get the same results.

For some reason my boost gauge isn't showing any boost in 1st gear? I probably just wasn't gunning it in 1st though.

What could the problem be?

I've installed the turbotech bc as per instructions in the DIY section of this site. Fairly sure the autometer gauge is accurate and installed correctly. Seems to be consistent with the dash gauge (i.e. the needle of both boost gauges hit 0 at the same time).

EDIT - Mods include JJ Cooling Pro type 1 FMIC, full 3" exhaust with hi-flow cat.

Edited by Simmo1985
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185130-boost-spike-problems/
Share on other sites

Not sure if this means anything to anyone, but before I installed the boost controller I took the car for a spin (just installed the boost gauge) and it seemed to hit low-boost mode (standard boost solenoid was still connected) fine, went to 5psi on the gauge however boost seemed to drop off noticeably in the higher revs.

I've got a feeling the problem is lying with the exhaust. It's a JJR split dump pipe.

what boost do you get if you run a line from the intercooler pipe to the actuator (will be the minimum boost that your car will make) check that the wastegate isnt fouling on the pipe and try taking off the heat shield too or modify it (it was in the way on mine) I had to die grind my turbo wastegate to get the boost down after the exhaust went on

Here is a pic of my setup. Is this right? If not what should I change?

I'm not too sure where that cord runs off to the left.. sorta disappears in near my radiator and seems to run to the bottom left hand side of the car.

The intercooler is a Cooling Pro type 1 from Just Jap. I've heard that these kits don't have a nipple or something or other.. Is this apart of my problem?

post-39834-1189913421_thumb.jpg

Edited by Simmo1985

check the other post where you posted about your problem, i replied there but basically bypass your charcoal canister (which is probably where the lines are leading under the bottom left of your car) and see what that does

i had the EXACT same problem as you but as soon as i tried that, it was all good

btw by law you must run a charcoal canister

Before boost controller it was running just the standard boost, was running it pretty much normally.. However at higher revs boost seemed to drop off, not sure if this is normal as I only took the car for a quick drive after installing the gauge before moving onto boost controller install.

the pressure feed is the hose that comes off the side of the manifold and goes to your 'T' join. I would first connect that straight onto the actuator take car for a spin and check the boost level to ensure you have a good pressure feed (i assume you have a boost gauge) and that its not running a high boost level to start with

charcoal canister

Definition: A storage device in the evaporative emissions control system. It is a small cylindrical or rectangular container that contains activated charcoal particles. The charcoal traps gasoline vapors from the fuel tank (and carburetor on older vehicles). Later, the vapors are purged and drawn into the engine when the vehicle is being driven.

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

I disconnected the line that is likely running to the charcoal canister and connected only the pressure line to the boost controller. Car is now holding 7psi like an absolute champion. No boost spikes or drops.

What's my best move from here? Just run the car with the charcoal canister lines disconnected and blocked permanently?

I'm just relieved it's not my dump pipe that needs replacing!! Thanks for the advice so far guys, keep it coming :unsure::P;) ..

hey mate just looked at your picture and noticed that you used the old rubber hose (the one with the red line on it coming off the 'T' joiner) take it off and check that it doesn't have the restictor inside it if it does just push it out and take for another spin

Ok, status update.. I checked the red hose - it did have a restrictor in the line. Removed it and re-hooked everything back up with the charcoal canister line. For some reasons my car does not run as well with this connected, it was hunting at idle and had hesitation when I was revving the engine in neutral.

Took it for a drive, second gear hit about 7psi stable.. third gear however was again going over 12psi.. must have something to do with the length of the hose or something.. maybe when they installed the FMIC they had to move the charcoal canister to somewhere else? Maybe it is supposed to sit a lot closer? My friends 180sx has that canister thing sitting on the front right side of the engine bay, just to the side of the radiator.

I guess I'll just disconnect the charcoal canister lines for now and block them off. Can anyone confirm this is safe to do?

as drifter said just 't' of the bov line or get a nipple put onto your intercooler pipe (which will make for nice short piping too) I wouldnt be messing with the canister if you dont have too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Order for the 2025 model R35 GT-R were accepted from 3rd March and 26th August the last order rolled off the production line at the Tochigi plant. Concerning the R35 GT-R replacement, current Nissan CEO Ivan Espinosa said "Nothing has been decided about the GT-R at this time, but we are well aware that everyone is waiting. The GT-R will evolve and reappear in the future. Please be patient until that day comes." Nissan has a lot of issues with management and finances so take Espinosa's words with a big grain of salt. From what discussions I've had and read about here in Japan, not a lot of people are confident about Nissan's future, let alone the next GT-R. 
    • Thanks. We getting some parts along too so he will be solving the speed issue like next week so i will let you know what he came up with.   
    • 21 is explicitly the coils detected as the issue. Is it guaranteed the actual issue? No. Just the ECU thinks it is. When you say rattling, describe it better, get an audio clip as best you can if possible.
    • Yea got me coppers. Bad news is I just put them in and the car still has the light and shakes. I also noticed I hear like rattling coming from the exhaust piping right under me. Does 21 also have a possibility of being O2 sensors?   So, coil packs are good, the harness is good, the MAF is working, and obviously the spark plugs just replaced and working.
    • Make sure you drop the GTT base tune back in, and set your injectors again, this will remove anything playing up with it you may have removed. Possibly lean there as it's normally a fast transient going THROUGH atmospheric pressure, and a turbo motor would then quickly go richer as boost builds. The only worry you MIGHT have is ignition timing, as the DE is higher compression than the DET from memory. But again, you're not in boost, so the DE motor will be a lot more forgiving at atmospheric.   Get Murray, Kinkstahs, and Johnny's input on tuning haltechs, those guys have played with tuning enough in the past to be able to help now you're past the trouble shooting stage of the MAP issue
×
×
  • Create New...