Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After selling my modified xr6 turbo i no longer have the pleasure of a fast car :laugh:

My R32 gts-t is in need of some major upgrading.

I was going to get a new turbo injectors and all that for it but i thought it would be a waste of money as i really want to build a bigger better engine for it.

I so far see 3 options and maybe a number 4

1) Forged rb24det

2) Forged rb25det

3) Forged rb30det

4) 350Z motor with a supercharger/turbo(Probably too expensive)

Any one got some rough ideas on the price im looking at for these options?

Not sure what turbo to go either will work that out when i decide on one of the above options

I am already budgeting $1500 for an r33 5 speed manual and clutch.

Also what work shops in Perth have done these conversions before?

Thanks for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185258-building-a-new-engine-for-my-32/
Share on other sites

rb30debt :laugh:

shouldnt cost too much

blocks go for about 500 for turbo one

need a 25 head 500-600

pistons around 1200

rods about 1000

gasket abour 250

crank $?

cams 1000

stud kits $?

jun oil pump 1k

n1 water pump about 400-500

maching under 1k

labour dunno :S

clutch not necessarily need a twin plate ross from autoclutch can just build a single plate that can just do the same as a twin plate also cheaper

box 1500

alot more other shit

turbo and gate manifold and shit about 4-5k

setup will cost 15k maybe more :S

i was gonna do this same setup but id rather spend money else where

rb30debt :laugh:

shouldnt cost too much

blocks go for about 500 for turbo one

need a 25 head 500-600

pistons around 1200

rods about 1000

gasket abour 250

crank $?

cams 1000

stud kits $?

jun oil pump 1k

n1 water pump about 400-500

maching under 1k

labour dunno :S

clutch not necessarily need a twin plate ross from autoclutch can just build a single plate that can just do the same as a twin plate also cheaper

box 1500

alot more other shit

turbo and gate manifold and shit about 4-5k

setup will cost 15k maybe more :S

i was gonna do this same setup but id rather spend money else where

like on a head unit lol ;)

if i go that route i will use the 26 head may be more expensive but fits with less modifications.

Since everyone is talking about the rb30det i guess its the most popular choice.

Yep, would be a good choice.

I had planned to do this not too long ago. I was gonna slowly build up an RB30 with the 26 head and put the best of the best into it, but my 20 decided to go before i had even started, so im just in the process of rebuilding my 20 then once that is all done ill start building the 26/30 over bout a year then just drop it in when its all done or if the 20 decides to go again :)

My power goals for now are 250 - 260rwkw will I need to go forget pistons and everything else for this?

For now mainly looking for less lag in that power range other wise i could build my rb20 up if lag didnt worry me as much.

In afew years time when the morgugae isnt killing me as much then i could probably stick some forgies in her.

rb30det with gt35/40

you could get yourself a rb30 n/a block for a carton (any more and the person selling it is crazy)

or a turbo block for about 200-300 bucks max (the advantage of a turbo block is that it already has oil and water lines for the turbo drilled into the block)

you dont have to go forgies (various combinations of rb25 pistons and rb30 or rb25 rods can get a multitude of compression ratios - eg rb25 na pistons on rb30 rods is around 9:1 i believe), and the stock rb30 rods can hold upto about 300kw (if shot peened and cleaned and balanced correctly), the rb30 crank is strong enough to hold 300kw (if not more) - probably only needs a light grind around big ends and then a linish

read the multitude of threads that are around - you can spent lots and get a hipo engine, or you can spend not much and get an engine that makes only a little less power

for your power goal buy a rb25 front cut and put that in there.

Use a GT30, or for the cheap, a highflow Rb25 turbo and with ancillaries, youll get there.

That would be the cheapest way of getting to your power level which isnt high enough to warrant a forged motor.

Rb30 is overkill for that power level

My power goals for now are 250 - 260rwkw will I need to go forget pistons and everything else for this?

For now mainly looking for less lag in that power range other wise i could build my rb20 up if lag didnt worry me as much.

If you only want that power level just chuck a stock-ish 26 in there.

Will cost you approx ~4k for a motor.

Throw another 2k at it for some GT-SS turbos, 1k for a PowerFC, injectors, pump, and make 300rwkw sometime in the future.

If your interested in going the Rb26 route I'm waiting for XSpeed to finish off my new engine and then I'll have a stock internal 26 with GT-SS for sale. It made just over 400hp at the wheels at 1.2bar. It will need injectors, dumps and a wiring loom as I'll be using these for my new engine.

Should be somtime in the next month (October-ish).

yep that 26 with GTSS would be perfect for you... don't think he will sell it to you for 3K tho:(

3K won't buy you much... maybe a turbs upgrade for the 20... factor at least 6K for any forged motor listed here

EDIT: except a rb30et, you might score a secondhand forged package relatively cheap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...