Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After selling my modified xr6 turbo i no longer have the pleasure of a fast car :laugh:

My R32 gts-t is in need of some major upgrading.

I was going to get a new turbo injectors and all that for it but i thought it would be a waste of money as i really want to build a bigger better engine for it.

I so far see 3 options and maybe a number 4

1) Forged rb24det

2) Forged rb25det

3) Forged rb30det

4) 350Z motor with a supercharger/turbo(Probably too expensive)

Any one got some rough ideas on the price im looking at for these options?

Not sure what turbo to go either will work that out when i decide on one of the above options

I am already budgeting $1500 for an r33 5 speed manual and clutch.

Also what work shops in Perth have done these conversions before?

Thanks for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185258-building-a-new-engine-for-my-32/
Share on other sites

rb30debt :laugh:

shouldnt cost too much

blocks go for about 500 for turbo one

need a 25 head 500-600

pistons around 1200

rods about 1000

gasket abour 250

crank $?

cams 1000

stud kits $?

jun oil pump 1k

n1 water pump about 400-500

maching under 1k

labour dunno :S

clutch not necessarily need a twin plate ross from autoclutch can just build a single plate that can just do the same as a twin plate also cheaper

box 1500

alot more other shit

turbo and gate manifold and shit about 4-5k

setup will cost 15k maybe more :S

i was gonna do this same setup but id rather spend money else where

rb30debt :laugh:

shouldnt cost too much

blocks go for about 500 for turbo one

need a 25 head 500-600

pistons around 1200

rods about 1000

gasket abour 250

crank $?

cams 1000

stud kits $?

jun oil pump 1k

n1 water pump about 400-500

maching under 1k

labour dunno :S

clutch not necessarily need a twin plate ross from autoclutch can just build a single plate that can just do the same as a twin plate also cheaper

box 1500

alot more other shit

turbo and gate manifold and shit about 4-5k

setup will cost 15k maybe more :S

i was gonna do this same setup but id rather spend money else where

like on a head unit lol ;)

if i go that route i will use the 26 head may be more expensive but fits with less modifications.

Since everyone is talking about the rb30det i guess its the most popular choice.

Yep, would be a good choice.

I had planned to do this not too long ago. I was gonna slowly build up an RB30 with the 26 head and put the best of the best into it, but my 20 decided to go before i had even started, so im just in the process of rebuilding my 20 then once that is all done ill start building the 26/30 over bout a year then just drop it in when its all done or if the 20 decides to go again :)

My power goals for now are 250 - 260rwkw will I need to go forget pistons and everything else for this?

For now mainly looking for less lag in that power range other wise i could build my rb20 up if lag didnt worry me as much.

In afew years time when the morgugae isnt killing me as much then i could probably stick some forgies in her.

rb30det with gt35/40

you could get yourself a rb30 n/a block for a carton (any more and the person selling it is crazy)

or a turbo block for about 200-300 bucks max (the advantage of a turbo block is that it already has oil and water lines for the turbo drilled into the block)

you dont have to go forgies (various combinations of rb25 pistons and rb30 or rb25 rods can get a multitude of compression ratios - eg rb25 na pistons on rb30 rods is around 9:1 i believe), and the stock rb30 rods can hold upto about 300kw (if shot peened and cleaned and balanced correctly), the rb30 crank is strong enough to hold 300kw (if not more) - probably only needs a light grind around big ends and then a linish

read the multitude of threads that are around - you can spent lots and get a hipo engine, or you can spend not much and get an engine that makes only a little less power

for your power goal buy a rb25 front cut and put that in there.

Use a GT30, or for the cheap, a highflow Rb25 turbo and with ancillaries, youll get there.

That would be the cheapest way of getting to your power level which isnt high enough to warrant a forged motor.

Rb30 is overkill for that power level

My power goals for now are 250 - 260rwkw will I need to go forget pistons and everything else for this?

For now mainly looking for less lag in that power range other wise i could build my rb20 up if lag didnt worry me as much.

If you only want that power level just chuck a stock-ish 26 in there.

Will cost you approx ~4k for a motor.

Throw another 2k at it for some GT-SS turbos, 1k for a PowerFC, injectors, pump, and make 300rwkw sometime in the future.

If your interested in going the Rb26 route I'm waiting for XSpeed to finish off my new engine and then I'll have a stock internal 26 with GT-SS for sale. It made just over 400hp at the wheels at 1.2bar. It will need injectors, dumps and a wiring loom as I'll be using these for my new engine.

Should be somtime in the next month (October-ish).

yep that 26 with GTSS would be perfect for you... don't think he will sell it to you for 3K tho:(

3K won't buy you much... maybe a turbs upgrade for the 20... factor at least 6K for any forged motor listed here

EDIT: except a rb30et, you might score a secondhand forged package relatively cheap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...