Jump to content
SAU Community

Nismo R33 Gtr Diff

bloodsword27
 Share

Recommended Posts

bloodsword27 Veteran

bloodsword27

Posted
Posted

hey guys just wondering would there be a massive difference in performace between the Nismo diff from the GTR compared to my stocker viscous? i heard that a standard GTR unit is apparently better than the standard GTST ones but still concerned about how much bite there is thats keeping the two apart?

looking to go for a lsd upgrade to a 2-way but still pondering about whether this is a real 2-way mechanical type (being a nismo [not sure if they made standard 33 gtr lsd's] or simply a GTR lsd) or if its not really worth the money to get one..

thanks for your help in advance!

Dom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185619-nismo-r33-gtr-diff/
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The std gtr diff is just a std nissan mechanical diff. Very similiar as to what was in the old turbo 300zx's and r31's coupes.

The nismo's are an aftermarket item. Unsure but the N1's etc 'may' have been released with the uprated nismo diff centre.

A gtr diff won't bolt up due to its different half shaft bolt up; 6 vs the gtst's 5. To get it to fit you need bolt up the gtr hubs and purchase the axles etc. So not a cheap exercise BUT you will be provided with a near bullet proof rear end should you decide to run some decent slicks with big rpm launches at the drags.

Cheapest way out.. Grab a 1k kaaz unit from one of the sponsors and have it fitted in to your diff.

The clutch/mechanical diff's are much better than the vlsd's.

bloodsword27 Veteran

bloodsword27

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im so over my vlsd lol yea ive pretty much decided to go either nismo or cusco...or kaaz...wats the difference? i have only seen rebuild kits for nismo items so sorta leaning towards that..

bloodsword27 Veteran

bloodsword27

Posted
  • Author
Posted

haha it jsut seems there is so much option on the market but im leaning towards to the nismo's due to the ability to be rebuilt. im not sure about that feature with the other units...

donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
Posted
The std gtr diff is just a std nissan mechanical diff. Very similiar as to what was in the old turbo 300zx's and r31's coupes.

The nismo's are an aftermarket item. Unsure but the N1's etc 'may' have been released with the uprated nismo diff centre.

A gtr diff won't bolt up due to its different half shaft bolt up; 6 vs the gtst's 5. To get it to fit you need bolt up the gtr hubs and purchase the axles etc. So not a cheap exercise BUT you will be provided with a near bullet proof rear end should you decide to run some decent slicks with big rpm launches at the drags.

Cheapest way out.. Grab a 1k kaaz unit from one of the sponsors and have it fitted in to your diff.

The clutch/mechanical diff's are much better than the vlsd's.

Woudl puting in a kaaz unit still be as strong as the gtr rear end? Im thinking not?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

With regards to the diff.. the Kazz is a tougher unit than the std gtr diff.

But if you are talking about the axles/hubs then no; the gtr has the larger dia. axles.

The diff is the diff the axles are the axles.

Ultimately the GTR axles/hubs + the uprated nismo centre and its as tough as it can possibly get.

From my understanding. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...