Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I've got a series 1 R33 wreck here, has a had a front end smack so the headlights/bumper/grille etc arent available, basically everything else is though

washer bottle & pumps - $20

radiator overflow bottle - $20

front swaybar - $30

rear bumper(maroon) - $50

Other bits:

roof lining (non sunroof model) good condition- $30

kick panels - $30/pair

Negotiable on some of this stuff. Pm me!

Thanks

rear rotors - $100 almost brand new, awesome nick SOLD

rear calipers&pads - $130 SOLD

rear 5 stud hubs & handbrakes + cables - $300 pair SOLD

stereo mounting brackets - $25 pair SOLD

rear left tail light -SOLD

parcel shelf SOLD

front seats in good nick - SOLD

larger dash surround w/ clock, hazards etc (had a tiny crack in it but i fixed it) - SOLD

front hubs, SOLD

upper control arms, front & rear - $25 each SOLD

castor/radius rods, near new aftermarket urethane bushes- $100 pair SOLD

stock rear shocks SOLD

rear clear Skyline fascia - $45 SOLD

complete boot interior, sides, carpet, top piece, as new - $70 SOLD

engine fuse box cover - $20 SOLD

leather handbrake boot, immaculate -$25 SOLD

seatbelts & buckles x5 (all of them)SOLD

climate control unit, as new condition SOLD

drivers side door trim - $50 SOLD

rear seats good nick - $50 SOLD

lowered front/rear king springs SOLD

complete set of 5 floormats, good condition SOLD

sun visors - $20 pair SOLD

3" catback exhaust system with resonator & cannon muffler, good sound -SOLD

S1 turbo(steel turbine) oil seal on compressor side is stuffed, very little shaft play -$100 SOLD

boost gauge - $40 SOLD

dash gear surround w/ leather boot and cig lighter - SOLD

bootlid with series 2 spoiler - SOLD

pair red GT badges, awesome condition - SOLD

front rotors - $100 SOLD

front calipers&pads SOLD

post-35556-1190177386_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177438_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177454_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177485_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177514_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177539_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177551_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190178121_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190562493_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190562523_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190562543_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190562876_thumb.jpg

Edited by phatlavish
  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey mate i got a series 2 r33

that has unfortunsately had an accident doing literally 20 ks'

my front quarter is gone

is the body in front the same as series 2

i no panels and stuff r

the waterbottle

is it the same as series 1

im after

radiator

front headlight drivers side (series 2)

waterbottle

fuse box cover

intercooler piping

maybe intercooler if cheap enough as i think mine may live not sure

bonnet

windsreen

front drivers side quarter cut

radiator support

maybe the cooler in front of the radiator( think its trans or something like that not sure)

i desperately need these parts

but money is a bit tight

:D

i wouldnt be in this predicament if the woman din have a spazz then leave and take my kidsas the the women left with the kids

an f**ked me over

but nyways

if u could help in anyway

or if there is any1 else out there that could help me with these parts and mif possible sum1 who could do the front quarter wed or wateva

cheap

please help out guys

cheers

im on msn or just email me any1

[email protected]

or call me

0422774359

help much appreciated

hey man how did the window's go? as in were they smooth going up and down etc? i'm after the drivers side regulator - don't really need the motor but if you'd prefer to sell together, let me know price.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...