Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I've got a series 1 R33 wreck here, has a had a front end smack so the headlights/bumper/grille etc arent available, basically everything else is though

washer bottle & pumps - $20

radiator overflow bottle - $20

front swaybar - $30

rear bumper(maroon) - $50

Other bits:

roof lining (non sunroof model) good condition- $30

kick panels - $30/pair

Negotiable on some of this stuff. Pm me!

Thanks

rear rotors - $100 almost brand new, awesome nick SOLD

rear calipers&pads - $130 SOLD

rear 5 stud hubs & handbrakes + cables - $300 pair SOLD

stereo mounting brackets - $25 pair SOLD

rear left tail light -SOLD

parcel shelf SOLD

front seats in good nick - SOLD

larger dash surround w/ clock, hazards etc (had a tiny crack in it but i fixed it) - SOLD

front hubs, SOLD

upper control arms, front & rear - $25 each SOLD

castor/radius rods, near new aftermarket urethane bushes- $100 pair SOLD

stock rear shocks SOLD

rear clear Skyline fascia - $45 SOLD

complete boot interior, sides, carpet, top piece, as new - $70 SOLD

engine fuse box cover - $20 SOLD

leather handbrake boot, immaculate -$25 SOLD

seatbelts & buckles x5 (all of them)SOLD

climate control unit, as new condition SOLD

drivers side door trim - $50 SOLD

rear seats good nick - $50 SOLD

lowered front/rear king springs SOLD

complete set of 5 floormats, good condition SOLD

sun visors - $20 pair SOLD

3" catback exhaust system with resonator & cannon muffler, good sound -SOLD

S1 turbo(steel turbine) oil seal on compressor side is stuffed, very little shaft play -$100 SOLD

boost gauge - $40 SOLD

dash gear surround w/ leather boot and cig lighter - SOLD

bootlid with series 2 spoiler - SOLD

pair red GT badges, awesome condition - SOLD

front rotors - $100 SOLD

front calipers&pads SOLD

post-35556-1190177386_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177438_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177454_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177485_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177514_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177539_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190177551_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190178121_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190562493_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190562523_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190562543_thumb.jpg

post-35556-1190562876_thumb.jpg

Edited by phatlavish
  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey mate i got a series 2 r33

that has unfortunsately had an accident doing literally 20 ks'

my front quarter is gone

is the body in front the same as series 2

i no panels and stuff r

the waterbottle

is it the same as series 1

im after

radiator

front headlight drivers side (series 2)

waterbottle

fuse box cover

intercooler piping

maybe intercooler if cheap enough as i think mine may live not sure

bonnet

windsreen

front drivers side quarter cut

radiator support

maybe the cooler in front of the radiator( think its trans or something like that not sure)

i desperately need these parts

but money is a bit tight

:D

i wouldnt be in this predicament if the woman din have a spazz then leave and take my kidsas the the women left with the kids

an f**ked me over

but nyways

if u could help in anyway

or if there is any1 else out there that could help me with these parts and mif possible sum1 who could do the front quarter wed or wateva

cheap

please help out guys

cheers

im on msn or just email me any1

[email protected]

or call me

0422774359

help much appreciated

hey man how did the window's go? as in were they smooth going up and down etc? i'm after the drivers side regulator - don't really need the motor but if you'd prefer to sell together, let me know price.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...