Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

First of all, this is my first post in SAU, however, i've been reading a lot of posts on here and thank you very much for all the helpful information provided by all the members.

I'm in the process to a new project for my track car. And the purpose of this track car is mainly for Drift. Hence, it could be a different setup than most of the other conversion (Maybe?)

I am aiming for 350KW to 400kw at the wheel. And reliability is a major issue

Got a Rb26 head in my garage and about to purchase a RB30 block. Doesn't matter a series 1 or 2 as just the matter of drilling and tapping i assume.

However, as my main concern is the bottom end that should i fully rebuilt it or just recondition the standard RB30 parts.

I found out the RB30 standard parts are not ideal to high RPM rev, as i think they are only safe until 6500rpm. (Not good for drifting)

So if i rebuilt the whole buttom end with forged piston, aftermarket rods with standard crank, does that mean i can rev it up to 7500rpm or even 8000rpm safe?

Here are the specs i'm thinking in my mind:

Head:

RB26 Head (Pretty much bolt on to the RB30 Bottom End)

Need Oil drain back from head to sump.

Currently have N1s with standard maniford. Obviously have to use bigger turbo to achieve the target.

Prefer twin setup. Maybe Disco Potato ?

(Would like to have nice low torque and smooth top end power as well) Easy to handle :laughing-smiley-014:

Bottom End:

Oil Squirters? (Some say no, some say yes. I know it's hard to put them in but is it neccessary?)

Need good conrod bolt. (Any suggestion?)

Nissan Big Bearing will do the job.

Piston:

Should i run aftermarket? If so, which one? Some people put RB25 Piston with 20 thou, i think they are Wiseco. (Good Setup?)

If not, what would you all recommend?

RB30 Standard Piston? I know it's good to have they ceramic coatin the piston crowns and oil retention coating the piston skirts. But is this goanna be enough to handle the power?

So far i could not get the best compression result from my research. I think 8.5:1 is good? If so which piston i should use?

Conrods:

Should i use stand conrods and reinforce them?

Or

Should i use aftermarket conrods? If so which brand?

I found some conrods called SPOOL but wondering if anyone has use it before, Are they any good? On their website it rated 900hp plus.

Crankshaft:

That's the only part i could not find much information. Any suggestion?

Oil Pump:

Heard that standard GTR will do the job, but better to put a oil pump collar on it.

I am thinking to put a external pump as well.

I will convert to RWD, so i assume the RB25DET sump will bolt straight on to the bottom end. Correct me if i'm wrong.

Once again, thank you very much for reading this post. I know it's very long with so much question.

But any input or comment are welcome. :wave:

Cheers,

P.S. Anyone know where to get a cheap RB30 Enigne in SA? I found one for $395 from one of the wreckers. And maybe i can find one cheaper :)

Forgot to mention i had PFC dejetro (No AFM) and will upgrade fuel pump as well as injectors.

Edited by R324
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185981-rb26rb30-conversion-setup/
Share on other sites

Yea i read that post the other day, however, it is using factory piston and rods to suit his power range.

Hence, my aiming power will be a bit over the standard piston and rods can handle i guess.

ALso in that post, it did not mention anything about the crank as far as i read.

But thank you very much for the direction, i will have a good look again. :)

Any other comments?

yeh... read the "WHOLE" thread instead of the first persons first post.

what you are suggesting has been done by over a dozen people in that thread above.

don't be lazy.

or at least go in to that thread a search within the thread.

see just down the bottom left here..

it says "Enter Keywords" and then the "search Topic" button..

do that in the 280page thread about the RB30/25/26 hybrids.

Thankx for that.

I read about 40 pages of it, have better idea now.

However, since everyone are mainly talking about 25 head so it's abit lack of information on 26head and crank.

But i will keep reading the rest of it and hopefully i can find some answer.

Cheers,

Piston: CP rb26/30 specific ( i use the 8.3 comp (1.2mm gasket) as i run bigger boost) go the 9ish cr for the lower boost/streeter

Conrods: Argo with arp 2000 bolts

Crank: Get it balanced and nitrated if money is there

Oil Pump: Jun/Trust/Tomei with collar

Thankx for that.

I read about 40 pages of it, have better idea now.

However, since everyone are mainly talking about 25 head so it's abit lack of information on 26head and crank.

But i will keep reading the rest of it and hopefully i can find some answer.

Cheers,

There is 26 head info, the first 40 pages had good info.

However a fair portion of more info in depth comes later in that thread.

Its almost progressive, the more pages you read the more indepth the thread goes as people find out parts/test things, so-on and so-forth.

Please take the time to read it end to end.

I doubt you'll have a question left after it :D

There are also a few other 26/30 threads around... cant remember the usernames off the top of my head however

Another thing to note is that some rb30 blocks do not have a machined flat surface where you need to install the idler.

Depending on how you do the belt setup, if you drill and tap the tensioner above the water pump be sure to get one of the blocks with a flat surface for the idler, otherwise its a real pain. The blocks that don't have a flat surface have a protruding gallery here and when the idler is torqued it will sit off center.

I think vl blocks all have this but some r31 skyline blocks do not.

I'm looking forward to get VL block. So hope this will make thing easier.

Another 10pages done..... Take a while and my brain start confusing again lol...

Is there any way i can print the entire thread? I tried the options, download Word document or print friendly version, however it doesn't seems like have all the post in there. At least the last post was in June 2003.

Just getting a really bad neck pain if i read all 280 pages in front of the laptop.

Cheers,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wrt the engine, you're very much limited by 'production quality' as to how much extra power you can extract from them (I'm talking i6 red-motor) -- a lot here depends on how 'authentic' or 'period correct' you want the modifications to be... ...I'm too old... <grin>...the first true performance engine Holden made, was in the HD/HR models ~ this was the 'X2' performance pack...it came with twin downdraft strombergs on an otherwise unimproved intake manifold, with a two piece exhaust manifold (reckoned to be as good as extractors)... ....these engines were built upon the '179HP' cylinder block, which included extra webbing in the casting to make it stronger and less susceptible to block distortion... The next performance i6 came out with the HK Monaro (also found it's way into the LJ GTR Torana ... the car I wish I hadn't sold)...it had pretty much the same manifold setup, but was built against the '186S' block...this block retained all the extra webbing of the 179HP block, but added a forged steel crankshaft (instead of the stock cast crankshaft), because it was possible to snap the crank... ...apart from the inherent weaknesses in the stock (cast crank) blocks, the next limiting factor is the cylinder head porting & combustion chamber design, and the actual valve sizes. Back in the day, you could buy a 'yella terra' cylinder head (from stage 1 to stage 5 gradients), and this was the way to get serious power out of them -- with the extra breathing of these heads, you could fit a triple SU or DCOE Weber setup... ...obviously, these mods were a waste of time on a stock cylinder head/camshaft grind. My housemate rebuilt the i6 in his VH dunnydore about 6 months back -- this is a 186S block with the 12port 2850 blue motor head and intake/exhaust manifolds, with a dual throat Weber off an XF Falcon mounted on an adapter plate ; it's not a bad makeup...got more torque & fuel economy just light-footing it about on the first throat, but stand on it and it makes more giddy-up than the standard 2850 blue motor that it replaced. Personal note: I'd just fit an RB30 and be done it it 馃槂  
    • Thanks for sharing. That's a great video! My buddy is doing the same thing on his build (S chassis struts and towers). He's building an S14 with billet RB30 shooting for 2000whp... a race car with a TH400 just like this video. For a road car I just couldn't go this route as the strut has to be almost vertical and the caster is not going to pivot correctly (let alone camber gain). You think the R32 frontend is bad, wait till you put a MacPherson strut on without modeling it all in Solidworks to check geometry. I'm not saying it's a bad way to do it but I'd be really curious to see how it affects the geometry.
    • Hey Christof and welcome!  Sounds like an awesome project! I'm not sure many of the regular users on here would know much about the HK but I could be wrong.  Looking forward to updates.
    • As long as its NOT a HyperSHITtune, youll be fine.
    • First time visitor and currently getting ready to start work on my HK Premier.  Its all stock, 186 with 3 on the tree.  The only mod i have right now is extractors.  I am hoping to get some guidance on slightly modifying the engine to bring a little more power. Just going for a nice, comfortable cruiser.  The car is very straight, however i have been out of the country for 20 years and its been gathering dust at a family farm.  Will be doing quite a bit of body work to cut out some small rust areas (frnt quarter panels and a few other small bits) and fix up the paint.  Will be redoing the interior (its currently black and the seats are in real need of recovering and respringing the driver side (its front bench seat).  The dash needs a little TLC, but no real damage.  As my heater has degraded I am considering fitting something after-market that will be both heater/AC (recommendations here are always welcome). Wanting something discrete that will allow me to use the same controls and not be obvious once inside the car.   For the engine, i have been told i could consider upgrading my cam (imagine i would need a new head as well) and putting a new carby (currently the original stromberg).  However not sure what is going to be the best route.  Would certainly welcome any comments/suggestions.  As  a final step I am looking at changing the wheels. Current hubcaps are in dire need of refurbishment or replacement (imagine its a bit like hens teeth).  Thinking of some clean/classic looking mags (7-inch should be more than enough - not going for a large change in look).  Welcome any comments/advice and of course any questions. 
  • Create New...