Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help With R32 Gtr Starting Problems

ECCE

By ECCE,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

ECCE Apprentice

ECCE

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok guy's i need some help, after being unstarted for about 12 months my r32 gtr is having a bit of trouble coughing back into life. After a rebuild its ready to go apart from the obvious problem of not firing, heres what has happend so far and all of this is since she was last driven before a part stripdown for paint etc, ok the wiring in the rear half of the car was removed very carefully and put back in after painting, fuel tank was removed, cleaned and flushed and put back in, dash was out but loom stayed in place, oil change and 10 litres of 98 and a new fuel filter were all put in, cranked with no start.

what i know...

1. I do have a spark, plugs were pulled and earthed and were producing a good spark.

2. Ecu is good, took it out and put it in a friends gtr, ran fine, actually better than his, ( he was a bit pissed off lol)

3. I have 50lbs of fuel pressure, plenty i'm told.

4. injectors were removed and tested, all 100% fine and clean.

5. I have fuel in the fuel rail.

6. I have 13 volts at the battery.

7. I Have looked at all the fuses in the car, and they are good, relays i do not know how to test.

8. When it was at the painters, they were trying to get the drivers window down using a spare battery and wires, whilst doing this there was a small spark as wires touched a plug in the door(mirrors plug or window plug) , i do not believe this to have created the problem , but guess it could have upset a relay or fuse???

9. When the plugs were out we looked at the top of pistions after cranking and there was absolutely no fuel in there, dry as a bone, so maybe the injector pulse???

10. earths have been checked in painted areas.

11, i love my Car, would really like some help here guys

Thanks

Edited by ECCE
Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

You sound fairly cluey. So this may sound silly but, you need 3 things.

A good strong spark - Use a spark tester to check strength or a screw driver holding it close to earth to see how long it will jump (careful you dont shock yourself!)

About 300kpa of fuel pressure - Use a noid light or multi meter or test light to check for injector pulse.

Decent compression - Check with a comp guage and look for about 150+ psi

Hope that helps,

Deren

ECCE Apprentice

ECCE

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hi deren, sure its the injectors pulse, or related to that

what about a relay, which is the eccs relay?? near the ecu??

hows your rebuild going? i know what thats like....

hope you saved the window seals unlike me.. get ready for a heart attack

monster 4000hrs and counting total rebuild.. but car not co-operating. lol

Edited by ECCE
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

50 psi fuel sounds too much. Should be around 40.

If you have spark, then the ECU is working. Have you tested the injectors in a tester, or still connected to the loom?

And you have compression?

ECCE Apprentice

ECCE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys, well the car last drove about 12 months ago, a went fantastic, so i would find it hard to believe it is a compression prob, have just got some "blazt software", you guys ever use this? looks pretty easy, hopefully will throw out a fault code, so relays anyone??? ecce relay?? is that next to ecu??? colour???

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

See if you can find the workshop manual. If will tell you how to run a diagnostic on the ECU without any software. Maybe able to pinpoint whats faulty.

I saved the side window seals but the front and rears were damaged in removal so either going to get non genuine or bite the bullet and go genuine..

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

There are 2 relays down behind the ECU - 1 is the ECCS relay, the other is Ign Coils. Both relays are probably working, since you have spark happening. The ECCS actually supplies power to the coil relay.

When IGN is applied, the injectors should have direct 12V (ECU switches them to earth). Check for continuity in the loom between each injector plug and its corresponding pin at the ECU - 1 - 1, 2 - 12, 3 - 3, 4 - 13, 5 - 2, 6 - 11

How did you test the injectors?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Just because they work in a test rig doesn't mean they work in an engine. I once had a set that occasionally shut down at idle (low duty cycle). But if I kept the revs up, the engine continued to run. When I took them back to the place I got them, I was told they worked fine (test rig, HIGH duty cycle).

Pull the fuel rail and stick each injector in a jar (or something to catch fuel) - still connected to the loom! Now crank. Any fuel coming out? Can you hear the injectors pulsing (use the old screwdriver-as-a-stethoscope trick)?

Have you tried boosting your battery from another battery / booster pack, ie jump starting your engine?

ECCE Apprentice

ECCE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i thought you guys would like to know what happened, i pulled out the 2 relays near the ecu and ordered some new ones, they arrived today, had the mech put the injectors back in so that i could test it with some datascan software, so he put it back together and hey presto it started straight away, perfectly, pulled the lid of the old relays and one was broken, a connection wire had broken but was still intact, so there you have it, solved, thank you to those of you that helped, your input was all very much appreciated..

will post some pics of black beauty ina few weeks once rebuild is complete.

kind regards..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...