Jump to content
SAU Community

Massive Miss Fire Along With A Few Other Issues


nisskid
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It runs crap at both high and low rpm. I've also checked the CAS with a oscilloscope and the megasquirt, both showed consistant pulses.

I hope its ignition... I'm running out of things to replace. If the RB30 was ready I'd just replace it with that :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds very similar to my RB20 which is currently sitting on an island in the middle of an intersection waiting to cool down :(

Small pop on idle, nothing consistant to tell what cyclinder its coming from. Missfires like a hoe at 4000-5000, it boost all the way to 14psi but hits 4000 and craps out. From idle to 2000rpm is missfires and hesitates, 2000-3500rpm it runs normal.

Sofar I've replaced the O2 sensor, fuel pump, injectors, spark plugs. O2 sensor was replaced with a wideband, before it died tonight I was logging the AFR's and it was all normal, it was trimming to 14.7 on cruise and idle, 12 on boost (tuned stock ecu, nothing touched other than WOT AFR's). Changing the injectors made it run better but not well, also stopped it running very rich (>9 AFR). I also had a loose alternator belt which made the car a bitch to start from it slipping.

ECU & AFM are definately doing there job, both read in the normal (checked via consult) and the fact that the mixtures are correct suggests it not there fault either. With the better part of the fuel system replaced it leaves ignition now. Still using standard coil packs and ignitor, the ignitor I can test using my oscilloscope (will do when I get the f$%king thing home) but since its the last thing left besides swapping the entire engine out I may aswell shell out for a wasted spark setup to rule it out completely. I've got a megasquirt-II waiting to be wired in so it'll make that install a little easier when I wire in the ignition.

I had a mechanic look at it but he just gave it back to me broken and said 'get it tuned on a dyno' :)

Best of luck fixing your problems, I'll post up how I go with the new spark system

oh fark, thats not good news lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It can be difficult to see; you really need to look down the side of the coil and a little underneath. They don't spark on top.

ahk its just the way u said fireworks show i thought id be able to see something pretty easy. i had a close look and couldnt see anything still. i dunno, just seems weird that all the coilpacks would go at the same time, when it hits 5psi its not just one or 2 cyls that go, the whole engine breaks down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh fark, thats not good news lol

haha yeh I'll say

Car is now sitting in the garage. Such an a-hole of a car, stalls and doesn't start not matter what... let it cool down and started it after a second or two of cranking :)

So now its down to either a mechanical or ignition problem that gets worse after the car is hot. I'll try and get some sort of wasted spark going tomorrow, just have to see what coils I can get from Repco or Supercheap at late night shopping. If its an internal problem then I'll have no choice but to finish my RB30 and put that it... what a shame that would be :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just remembered one other thing that can cause these issues. I had a hole in the factory side mounted intercooler that caused an un-even idle, poor boost control, and miss firing when on boost due to over fueling. Lots of black exhaust smoke as well due to excessive fuel. Seems a stone had flicked up from the front wheel and had damaged the back of the intercooler core through the inner guard shield.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok so turns out the stuttering and missing were different issues from the breaking down, there was a small leak in the piping which i fixed which got rid of it breaking down, but the missing is still there although i have to say its not as much of a concern than breaking down was.

so now ive gotta figure this missing out, not sure what to try next now :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

seems like we have the same problem

and i think its happened after the same circumstances

mines missing at idle too

except it never missfired on boost

i just got a new set of coils and that didnt help :)

im stumped.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine idles baby smooth with a 0.9mm+ gap; as soon as I drop to 0.8mm and less it has an ever so slight pop on idle.

The old rb20det required a 1mm gap other wise it had a slight pop.

Another fix is to richen up the mixture to 14:1 on idle (well it sorts it for mine).

I've left the idle lean as the slight pop/miss doesn't bother me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 mm gap? Ive been running 0.75 every time. Maybe i'll try your way.

Nisskid, do you have a BOV? they seem to be the cause of a lot of these types of issues. Otherwise, you may have to bight the bullet and whack it on the dyno. I had a similar problem in my 32 but it seemed to disappear altogether by itself :down:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no BOV, i blocked off the stock recirc. but the way my engine is now was the way it was before i had this issue, so somethings deteriorated. only thing i can think about was that wastegate issue i had, i fixed that, but even so this started well after that was changed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well i seem to be getting told its a problem with the CAS

Im trying to get another and see if it fixes the idle problem

Trying a different ignitor pack today so we'll see how that goes

Then its a comp+leakdown test+dyno

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive tried every gap with no avail.

im not so worried about it coz like you said, it doesnt cause any problems when driving

It's just annoying coz i cant figure out what it is.

I'll get to the bottom of this eventually

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
    • Just did this job on my 32 with the boost doc kit. was quite simple to fit, hardest part was getting the rubber bungs back on the firewall. does anyone know how the heater will work now without the flap in the bend? Will I just have a heater on 24/7 now?
×
×
  • Create New...