Jump to content
SAU Community

New Mods Completed......what Next?

Furiuz

By Furiuz,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Furiuz Enthusiast

Furiuz

Posted
Posted

hey guys

just finished the following mods: 440cc inj, tomei fuel pump + fuel regulator, greddy emanage ultimate, prfect b. already have a cooler, pod, turbs back 3"exhaust. Am producing around 175kw. Looking at gettin more power without increasing the actual size of the turbo what would i go with next for more power? am open to high flowing but thats about it in the way of the turbo as i dont want it to stand out if being defected!

any ideas would be helpful and is this the amount of power youd expect with these mods?

cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187102-new-mods-completedwhat-next/
Share on other sites
ISC-Performance Veteran

ISC-Performance

Posted
Posted
That is massive amounts of power out of a hyundai getz. :(

maybe you should update your cars section of you profile so that we know what you own and can better advise!!! :no:

lol...I have a getz aswell...dont bad the hyundai's...unless its an EXCEL!! :rofl:

Ryan

R33PER Enthusiast

R33PER

Posted
Posted

Not too sure what car you have, but i recently pulled 171kw at boostworx without larger injectors or a different ecu, would think you'd pull more than 4 extra kw with those mods but i could be wrong

Richo Mentor

Richo

Posted
Posted

On the cheap side, you can get a RB25 turbo, which is just slightly bigger than the 20 and it will look just like stock, remap the ECU and youll be around 190rwkw (at least I was)

Sell the emanage, to cover some of the costs, and enjoy!

Richo Mentor

Richo

Posted
Posted
Not too sure what car you have, but i recently pulled 171kw at boostworx without larger injectors or a different ecu, would think you'd pull more than 4 extra kw with those mods but i could be wrong

he has to be talking about an RB20 dude, why bother upgrading injectors and pump and regulator to get only 170kw. It has to be an old lazy RB20 :)

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)
he has to be talking about an RB20 dude, why bother upgrading injectors and pump and regulator to get only 170kw. It has to be an old lazy RB20 :ninja:

i don't think the rb20 standard turbo can even handle 175 kw and last for more than a week. upgrading injectors and pump wont produce much more power unless you have the air flow to make it, like a bigger turbo. you'd be able to get a little bit out of it with the EMU but not that big of a step for the rb20 on a standard turbo.

looks like its a good base for a turbo upgrade. if your worried about a turbo upgrade getting unwanted attention then a high flow is definantly the go. you've already got the supporting mods to make some good power.

Edited by QWK32
Furiuz Enthusiast

Furiuz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the suggestions guys. Lol and and dont bag the hyundai. Nothing wrong with korean made cars......lol

as some of you have guessed, the car is an rb20. i like the sound of the new afm and high-flowed turbo. im guessin a z32 afm is legal still??

dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
Posted
thanks for the suggestions guys. Lol and and dont bag the hyundai. Nothing wrong with korean made cars......lol

as some of you have guessed, the car is an rb20. i like the sound of the new afm and high-flowed turbo. im guessin a z32 afm is legal still??

if you want it to still look stock but go a fair bit harder, pick yourself up a forklift bottom end and chuck all your top end goodies on it.

that and a highflow will get you up around 230 / 250 kws, and still look like a stocker.

bottom ends can be had for around the $100 mark and then find yourself a second hand rb25 highflow from the fs section, and for $1000 you will gain 75 kws.

cheap power really.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • Jarsky
      gauge needle removal

      By Jarsky · Posted

      I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Jarsky
      R33 GTST Axles

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Jarsky
      R34 Speedo not working after manual swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Rezz
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By Rezz · Posted

      Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...